Crags
Map
Climbers
Forum
Photos
Logbook
Help
Favorite 13
Downloads
Request editor permission

Candy Mountain All Sport climbing 19 routes in cliff

19
AU
1113151719

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View historical timeline

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
13 ★ Kind to be Cruel Sport 12m, 5

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

2
11 Cruel to be Kind Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing, shares anchors with DITR.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

3
12 Dancing in the Rain Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing, lichenous.

Set by zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

4
14 ★ The Magical Liopleurodon Sport 12m, 4

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

5
17 ★ This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m, 4

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Hide
Edit
6
17 ★ Charlie Sport 12m, 4

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

7
15 ★ More Smart More Safe Sport 12m, 5

Where the track meets the wall. The first good climb, a nice beginners route.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

8
14 ★ After Dinner Delight Sport 12m, 6

Starts to the left of a tree growing very close to the cliff. Shares anchors with MSMS.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

9
17 ★ Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5

Starts in the cavelet directly in front of tree growing close to the cliff. Low first bolt protects the crux, second bolt is well hidden up to the left. Tend right at the top to the BK anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

10
14 ★ Banana King Sport 12m, 5

Start to the right of tree growing very close to the cliff. Move up on great holds all the way to the top.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

Hide
Legend
Edit
11
18 ★ Cookie Monster Sport 12m, 5

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

12
17 ★★ Lichen the Candy Sport 12m, 6

Follows the crack up through the green patch. Shares anchors with TRRU.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

13
16 ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 12m, 5

Start in front of the comfy belay tree.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 15 Dec 2013

14
15 ★ Glove Slap Sport 12m, 5

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

15
18 One Eyed Wanderer Sport 12m, 5

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

16
17 ★ Old Elvis Sport 12m, 5

Up to the left of the orange streak.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

Hide
Edit
17
19 ★★ Papa Smurf Sport 12m, 5

Up to the right of the orange streak. Shares anchors with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

18
16 ★ Fairy Floss Sport 12m, 6

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

19
20 ★ Happy Pants Sport 12m, 5

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Top editors by karma

See all contributors | Karma

Nearby Icons

14 ★ After Dinner Delight
19 ★★ Papa Smurf

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Grubbins at Candy Mountain - 39806877-156A-410D-84AA-ED0BE0EB074E.jpeg

★ Old Elvis 17 - WP_20140802_008[1].jpg

Grubbins at Candy Mountain - 13634D72-8F28-47BB-8B43-7D2947FDFA03.jpeg

Candy Mountain - candymnt 052.jpg

Activity

Check out what is happening in Candy Mountain.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文