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Candy Mountain All Sport climbing 19 routes in cliff

19
AU
1113151719

Seasonality

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Description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

History timeline chart

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 ★ Kind to be Cruel Sport 12m, 5

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set:

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

2
11 ★ Cruel to be Kind Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing, shares anchors with DITR.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

3
12 Dancing in the Rain Sport 12m, 5

Easy climbing, lichenous.

Set: zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

4
14 ★ The Magical Liopleurodon Sport 12m, 4

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

5
17 ★ This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m, 4

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

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6
17 ★ Charlie Sport 12m, 4

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

7
15 ★ More Smart More Safe Sport 12m, 5

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

8
14 ★ After Dinner Delight Sport 12m, 6

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

9
17 ★ Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC”

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

10
14 ★ Banana King Sport 12m, 5

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

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11
18 ★ Cookie Monster Sport 12m, 5

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

12
17 ★★ Lichen the Candy Sport 12m, 6

Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked.

Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

13
16 ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 15 Dec 2013

14
15 ★ Glove Slap Sport 12m, 5

Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

15
18 One Eyed Wanderer Sport 12m, 5

Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

16
17 ★ Old Elvis Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

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17
19 ★★ Papa Smurf Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

18
16 ★ Fairy Floss Sport 12m, 6

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

19
20 ★ Happy Pants Sport 12m, 5

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

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Nearby Icons

14 ★ After Dinner Delight
17 ★★ Lichen the Candy
19 ★★ Papa Smurf

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Jose Melo at Candy Mountain - 962D4D80-F19A-4B7A-90E2-5888D86E6116.jpeg

★ Old Elvis 17 - WP_20140802_008[1].jpg

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