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1 17m
2 38m
3 36m
4 50m
5 47m
6 100m
7 35m
8 195m

description

Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling.

Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR".

  1. 17m 4 A short pitch that allows the belayer to see roped parties (or top rope from the ground). Traverse out right across big ledges, skirting the vegetation above, then straight up to the DBB.

  2. 38m 4 Continue straight up, across big ledges & skirting trees, to the big shoulder & DBB belay.

  3. 36m 4 Traverse up R up rock steps, then trend left to ledge with small tree, from here, up the narrowing rock face with surprising exposure to belay ledge (single clip biner) and mouth of Cave 1.

  4. 50m 1 Unroped scramble up into Cave 1 & the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

  5. 47m 4 Traverse carefully out L side of cave along the narrow, precipitous ledge, until possible to move up to the terraced slab above. Up steep wall above with no protection to either of 2 rap stations. (The higher being the better option for roped parties.) (A belay is available from one of the trees on the LHS of Cave 2.)

  6. 100m 1 Unroped scramble from the belay ledge, up the rock steps up to the scrub, & follow this (worn) track through the scrub till you hit a large rock slab. Head down right to the rock slab & mount this up to the prominent chimney/corner.

  7. 35m 12 Up the sheer vertical face on small but good holds, till possible to mantle into the chimney. Easier now (grade 4) up the chimney & rock face above, crossing ledges to a DBB. (This is the true line, but a log that helped the original party climb into the chimney is no longer there. To avoid this hard section, take the Caves Route Variant.)

  8. 195m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, up rock ledges & bush, till you hit the West Track (Hiker's track).

© (gremlin)

Route history

6 Jun 1926First ascent: Bert Salmon & Allan Clelland

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92651, 152.94839

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12 Assigned grade
12 Mark Gamble
17 [16 - 17] ++ grAId
4
4 *** ACA Route Register
4

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 184 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 18
Flash 1
Red point 4
Solo 214
Tick 152
Top rope 2
Pink point 1
Attempt 9

Comment keywords

hard crank pumped interesting easy crazy shady slippery polished traverse epic arete crack chimney fist rest fantastic good great awesome brilliant cool perfect stoked nice pleasant classic sweet fun amazing enjoyable exciting super fall exposed dangerous

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