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Fixed Gear: Fresh glue at P1 anchors

A new bolt and chain has been added to backup the left-hand bolt of the pitch 1 anchor. The glue is fresh and will take up to 48 hours to set. Please be mindful of this and avoid touching/loading the bolt where possible.

I’ve left a warning sign on the bolt.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago
1 17m
2 38m
3 36m
4 50m
5 47m
6 100m
7 35m
8 195m

description

Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling.

Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR".

  1. 17m 4 A short pitch that allows the belayer to see roped parties (or top rope from the ground). Traverse out right across big ledges, skirting the vegetation above, then straight up to the DBB.

  2. 38m 4 Continue straight up, across big ledges & skirting trees, to the big shoulder & DBB belay.

  3. 36m 4 Traverse up R up rock steps, then trend left to ledge with small tree, from here, up the narrowing rock face with surprising exposure to belay ledge (single clip biner) and mouth of Cave 1.

  4. 50m 1 Unroped scramble up into Cave 1 & the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

  5. 47m 4 Traverse carefully out L side of cave along the narrow, precipitous ledge, until possible to move up to the terraced slab above. Up steep wall above with no protection to either of 2 rap stations. (The higher being the better option for roped parties.) (A belay is available from one of the trees on the LHS of Cave 2.)

  6. 100m 1 Unroped scramble from the belay ledge, up the rock steps up to the scrub, & follow this (worn) track through the scrub till you hit a large rock slab. Head down right to the rock slab & mount this up to the prominent chimney/corner.

  7. 35m 12 Up the sheer vertical face on small but good holds, till possible to mantle into the chimney. Easier now (grade 4) up the chimney & rock face above, crossing ledges to a DBB. (This is the true line, but a log that helped the original party climb into the chimney is no longer there. To avoid this hard section, take the Caves Route Variant.)

  8. 195m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, up rock ledges & bush, till you hit the West Track (Hiker's track).

© (gremlin)

Route history

6 Jun 1926First ascent: Bert Salmon & Allan Clelland

Warnings

30 Jul 2022 Warning Fixed Gear: Fresh glue at P1 anchors

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92651, 152.94839

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12 Assigned grade
12 Mark Gamble
17 [16 - 17] ++ grAId
4
4

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 195 ratings.

Difficulty - 12

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

4

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 20
Flash 2
Solo 206
Red point 4
Top rope 3
Tick 164
Pink point 1
Attempt 9

Comment keywords

epic shady chimney slippery easy rest crack polished crazy interesting arete traverse fist fall exposed dangerous fantastic exciting awesome amazing enjoyable classic beautiful brilliant incredible super perfect good pleasant fun sweet nice stoked great cool hard crank pumped

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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