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1 17 27m
2 10 20m
3 12 25m
4 12 26m
5 14 28m
6 14 28m
7 15 28m
8 15 30m

description

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall. Move left up 4th class for 15m till you're just left of the white streak. The route is the first route directly left of the white streak. Look for the first bolt about 2 metres off the ground. The climb starts here.

ABOUT: A neighbour to the somewhat more adventurous Burning Man, this climb offers a long adventure route that is great for beginners or those looking for a cruisy day in the mountains!

Originally starting further left and higher up, the FA was lead on head piece trad placements in what can only be described as a solid "adventure"! However, the start of the original climb didn't allow easy access and a better way was sought. Eventually a 4 pitch variant start was found just to the left of Burning Man which met with the original line on the exposed south face ridge. The route is fully equipped however you will need to sling a boulder for the top of pitch 8.

Take 10 draws and a couple of extenders.

As this is a new route beware of loose rock.

RETREAT You can rap the route with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 7. It is not advisable to rap from pitch 8 - either scramble up loose rocky path to tourist track or scramble down LHS of buttress to pitch 7 anchors and rap. Complete final rap to the base from an intermediate rap anchor on pitch two.

  1. 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

  2. 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

  3. 25m 12 Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground up start of ridge.

  4. 26m 12 Fun moves past the first hanger, then fantastic climbing up airy ridge to belay.

  5. 28m 14 Up easy ground before trending right to anchor.

  6. 28m 14 Straight up! Enjoy the funky moves over the pillar.

  7. 28m 15 Head up past hanger, then scramble through a small patch of bush with option to sling tree (bolts follow after tree). Super fun moves up slab to final belay anchor.

  8. 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

To exit, continue up the ridge (being mindful of the abundance of loose rocks) for another 40m to meet the tourist track where hikers will ask about your adventure in awe.

Route history

15 Jul 2018First free ascent: Jay & Matt Hunter

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92817, 152.94594

Grade citation

17,10,12,12,14,14,15,15 Assigned grade
15 [14 - 15] -- grAId
17 Jay

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Good
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Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 62 from 136 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 71
Flash 3
Red point 15
Tick 84
Attempt 3
Target 7

Comment keywords

hard powerful crux challenging solid crack fiddly awkward bad feet cruisy steep dry smooth shady rest vertical interesting sunny epic short face adventurous slabby easy contrived classic nice pleasant super sweet fun cool awesome lovely magic perfect amazing beautiful enjoyable good rad fantastic great brilliant dangerous scary tricky shocking

Activity

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