★★ Cold Case 20 R

An old school adventure with everything you know and love about Tibro - marginal gear, questionable rock, weird slabs and plenty of exposure! The name is a nod to the pioneers of yesteryear who encouraged us to put this route up in traditional ground-up style, as well as a reference to the relics found enroute which suggest it was attempted and abandoned some decades previous.

Gear: Single rack to #3 Camalot with doubles/triples in microcams such as X4's or Aliens. RP's, ball nuts recommended. Double ropes and a VERY solid leader mandatory.

1. 30m (15) Start approximately 20m left of Airtime Over Pumicestone. Climb left facing corner, trending left and up to bowl. Gear improves as you go. Tree belay with ancient tat from abandoned attempt.

2. 65m (20R) Might only be a 18/19, but the grade reflects the serious nature of this pitch. Up and left from the belay to an old piton that appears to have been the high point of a prehistorical attempt. From here, an airy traverse takes you rightwards across the "Diving Board" feature on very marginal gear and occasionally horrific rock. Keep trending right and up to a small arete with committing moves upwards to a PR. Keep climbing to a ledge, then up the short technical corner with bad fall potential. Thank your chosen deity as you arrive on an easy slab, following this leftward with spaced gear to a tree belay. Option exists to split this pitch with a semi-hanging belay at the base of the slab.

3. 55m (17R) From the belay, a rightward traverse with tremendous exposure and spaced gear leads to a shattered corner. Up this on spooky rock and thin gear to a chimney. Climb this, following a natural weakness to a bushy alcove with a natural belay.

4. 50m (9) Up unprotected but easy slab with a bit of bushbashing. At the small headwall, take the gulley to the left then follow the line of least resistance to the top of the vegetated pillar. The line then merges with Airtime Over Pumicestone.

Descent: Either finish up the excellent final pitch of Airtime over Pumicestone (Grade 19, 40m) or carefully follow the vegetated ridge down and right to a DBB under a small alcove. Three rappels with 2x 60m ropes will bring you to the ground.

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.