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Waterfall Area

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Description

A crag near the waterfall with some interesting climbs. Discovered by Luke Yerbury during COVID, this area provides a great introduction to climbing. The ground can be fairly dirty, so bring a tarp / brush to try keep shoes/gear clean.

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Approach

Park in the Yuelarbah Track car park off Burwood Road. Follow the the Yuelarbah Trail for 600m down the hill until it reaches the creek crossing. Wander/scramble down stream to the waterfall. On there right there is a scramble track with a rope to climb down. The Waterfall routes directly beyond.

Routes

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Grade Route

Nice climbing in a cool position. Start on big flat jug, up then carefully around onto face. Belay off trees or rap to clean. Carrots.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Good climb to learn how to lead climb and warm up

Slab wall between the corner and #5 'Fried Lichen' arete climb. 3 ring bolts.

Start up the crumbly slab wall, horizontal through the pockets to the arete and onto the face. No using the left wall - stay on the face. Joins last bolt and anchors of F&F.

FA: 5 Oct 2021

Climb the vertical wall just left of #7 'Roo Fing'. 3 ring bolts

Follow the cliff around from the Descent Walls. New area so expect loose rock in places.

First route encountered around from Ferns and Fings. Start directly below first bolt (can be clipped reaching across from the left) and up slab to juggy finish.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Up face below rooflet. Follow crack around and up. Tree belay. Cruxy.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Up onto ledge to start, then follow the right-most line of bolts. Shares first bolt with BS.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Start on ledge as for PP, then make move out left to large pocket and straight up. Top this one out for extra points.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Starts 2m left of PP. Up through thinness to mono, then right to good rail and finish as for BS. Leaving as a top rope due to the flaky nature of the holds.

FA: Luke Yerbury & John Hollott, 5 Oct 2021

Thin moves lead to an easier finish.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Follow the cliffline around from Ghost of Sparta. New area, expect some loose rock.

Starts on the arete on the left side of the overhang. Bouldery start into an easier finish.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Starts in the middle of the wall. Straight up the delicate slab.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Up passing the cave on the right. Good fun!

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Starts to the left of the corner/crack at the base of the cliff. Climb carefully to, or stick clip first bolt. Cave to pocket then up and around left onto the arete, finishing on the anchors of OTUT. Can clip last carrot of OTUT on the way if you wish.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Jun 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 25 Feb
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