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Summary

Bouldering cave below middle earth

Description

Newcastle's very own bouldering cave! Long ignored, but some find it fun climbing on “pretty decent” rock. Local boys Luke Yerbury & Aiden Watts made the discovery and got to work putting up some great problems at this local crag. Cave is wet during rain and seeps after, so allow some time to dry. Top outs will likely need a brush to clear leaves etc.

Access issues

Do not leave rubbish including mats or brooms here.

Approach

Approach as for Middle Earth, turning back left down the hill just after track squeezes you between tree and rock (just as the main wall comes into view). The cave is 10m down the hill on the left.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start deep in the left side of cave on the furthest left jug. Follow the line of good holds out and around to the little corner, topping out up and left.

FA: Luke Yerbury, May 2020

Start as for TCOM. Upon gaining the horizontal break, move left to finish as for GMOC. A classic 5 and a crag must do!

FA: Luke Yerbury, Sep 2020

Proudest line of the crag! Sit start deep in centre of cave, on reddish coloured rock. Follow rail of jugs out to good sloper at lip, on the bottom of the small vertical face. Gain the horizontal break, reach up to obvious sidepull, then blast your way out the final roof to an exciting topout. Hard final moves.

FA: Justin Gormly, 8 Jan 2021

Start as for TCOM. Upon reaching the horizontal break, move right to finish as for TEOS. Open Project.

Line between TEoS and TCoM, starting in the back of the cave on obvious bulge in cavity. Punches straight out to edges, finishes up and right, to same finish as TeoS on the flat ledge.

FA: JJ, 27 Jun

Sit start low on good edges. One move up to big obvious big juggy ledge then take the pocket with your right hand. Tops out up to the left on crimps or be the first to dyno from the pocket to the top! (The main good hold after the pocket has since broken, now around V6?)

FA: Luke Yerbury & Aidan Watts, Sep 2020

Start as for EoS, use 2 pebbly crimps with left & right hand to gain a sloping left sidepull.

Pop up to good ledge, some sneaky foot shenanigan's will help. This one chews the tips.

FA: JJ, 31 Jul

Squat start on jug to the right of the cavity. Traverse right on good holds to juggy ledge. Take the pocket with your left hand and top out via crimps and nice holds on the arete to the right.

FA: Luke Yerbury, May 2020

Sit start on the right-most rock feature outside the cave. Traverse through largest roof huecos and finish with the traverse of 'OPTRTA' in reverse. Bottom foot rail not included.

FA: Jarrod Delahunty, Dec 2020

Sit Start on slopers keeping feet off the lowest rock ledge. Up through roof and onto face via the wedged block. Meet the "Crack of Doom" then straight up to top out.

FA: Cameron Lovell, 4 Jul

Easy access up or down on far right hand end of cave.

FA: Aidan Watts, Dec 2019

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