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The Ben 10 Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 83
10

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Description

Probably the best of the boulders here. Has some good slab problems and some steep high balls. The fern at the top of the boulder is pretty overgrown now, may get in the way of some routes.

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Approach

Located below the Fish Bowl wall and a little to the east.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Around the corner next to the cave, up on good edge to top out.

FA: Ben Abel

Sit start on the good flake, up the arete

FA: Ben Abel

Just right of Jetray

Stand start in the small cave down low, up the slab.

Up the slab, left of the birds nest fern.

Up the slab to finish between the 2 left birds nest ferns.

FA: Jason Piper

Semi sit start on good edge, straight up.

Slopey edges on the right of the boulder.

Long problem with a bad landing.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

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