A short distance down the creek from the Waterfall boulders sits this curvaceous boulder.

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.


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Grade Route

Start low on sloper rail with heel out right. RH up to sidepull, then gain the arete and pull in for the juggy topout. Good tension required to not dab the big rock at the start.

FA: Luke Yerbury, 15 Aug 2021

Start on same rail as for burnouts. Move to the crimps out right (starting holds of skiddies) and up to jugs.

FA: Luke Yerbury, 15 Aug 2021

Squat start on good edges on the right. Follow RH arete to the top jugs to topout.

FA: Luke Yerbury, 15 Aug 2021

This lowball goodness sits just behind the burnout bloc. Start matched on slopey horizontal rail, slap the arete then topout. Separate block on the left is out.

FA: Luke Yerbury, 15 Aug 2021


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Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

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