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Fairy Good Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
1
BLDV
V3

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Approach

Walk straight down to the creek from the Ben 10 boulder and this boulder can be found on the other side. The honeycomb/pitted boulder sitting in the creek is a useful landmark.

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Start deep under the boulder on jug. Move out to crimps on lip and around to sloper pocket on the right before topping out. Very fun moves on nice holds!

FA: Luke Yerbury, 15 Aug 2021

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