Forum
Photos
Help

Wedge Tail Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 9

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago
13

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Collection of boulders on the parallel ridge line and valley to the Mountain Lion

Access issues inherited from Chimney Pot Gap

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Park at the Victoria Range Fire Line (off Glenelg River Road) walk through 3 tiers of boulders. Plenty of potential further up the trail - follow the Cairns above the Tale Of Two Wedgies.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

History

View historical timeline

Chris, James, Louis and Dick scrubbed and cherry picked, heaps of further lines to be done up the hill.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start on jug and RH on pinch, move up to large jug and use large pocket to gain slopey jug.

FA: Chris Leidy

A novelty traverse. Start as for Gollum Direct, though move right till under block and mantle over top.

FA: Jimmy S

Crimp like fiend up a thin set of seams.

Committing high ball with the crux high up! Start on jugged arete, move left into thin seamy crimps and make a committing move to a horn and top out with jugs.

FA: Louis Godsell, 19 Apr 2014

A lesson in crimps, and all bullet rock! Start on arete with jug with L hand and R on gaston incut, move right through two sets of sharp crimpers and make large move to slopey jug, and top out.

FA: Jimmy S, 14 Mar 2014

Climb arete from same start as The Tale of Two Wedgies... needs some serious scrubbing, but looks good.

Start as for 'Below Moss' and traverse left along slopey rail till at the jug for 'A Tale of Two Wedgies' and top out.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 19 Apr 2014

4 meters R of A Tale of Two Wedgies. Start on small and sharp crimps, make big move to slopey jug, head up through crimp and commit to the mantle.

FA: Dick Lodge Dick Lodge, 20 Apr 2014

Sit start on slopey rail 1 metre L of Slip and Slide, and move up through slopers and pinches to jugs and top out.

This boulder is 100 metres along from the the Tail of Two Wedgies problem. Walk along the top of this tier till come across a small gully. (Cairns)

Sit start on jugs, traverse left into tricky crimps and out the top.

FA: Jimmy Stephens

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Wedge Tail Boulders.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文