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River Road Rocks

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 17
  • Content Quality: Medium

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago

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Summary

Short walk in with varied routes.

Description

Small buttress with sport, mixed and trad routes. Close to road is a great benefit.

A little west and uphill from The Rubber Gumboot Subsidy Buttress another cliffette lurks in the scrub. At the left-hand end there is a red roof with a crack in it. Just left of this roof is a grey, compact wall.

Access issues inherited from Chimney Pot Gap

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Across the road from Cakewalk wall and a little W. Park at large boulder just off road and find cairned faint footpad up to cliff.Climbs described left to right.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Not bad for an accident. The left arete of the grey wall.

FA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1983

FA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1983

3 m right of Little Miss, climb up juggy wall into central, thin slabby crack. Small wires required.

FA: Jimmy, 20 Nov 2015

This one goes all the way. Climb the middle of the wall, pretty much following the black streak.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1999

There is an orange seam on the right side of the wall. Up this and hand traverse right on the orange wall over the roof.

FA: Neil Barr, 1983

FA: Neil Barr, 1983

Scramble up chimney around right arete till you can reach around to clip 1st bolt. Follow undercling/corner past 2 more bolts,until it ends. Reach right and then head straight up on gear.

FA: Dick Lodge, 28 Sep 2015

Start as for MOTBQ. Clip 1st bolt then follow undercling all the way out to arete, up and back to anchor of MOTBQ.

FA: Goshen Watts, 3 Jan 2016

Scramble up to ledge beneath steep wall. Pre-clip 1st bolt then from powerful undercling move up to 2nd bolt and big move right to left leading crack and 3rd bolt. Left along seam to large jugs, up then back right to anchor. Closed direct project straight up from 3rd bolt to anchor. DBB

FA: Dick Lodge, 28 Sep 2015

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