Crag X

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited 10 months ago




Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.

'Queensland' Cliff is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice:

© (nmonteith)


Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. Crag X is the blazingly obvious cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley. From the far side of the paddocks (about 100m south of the creek; not the creek near 'Red Rocks') a cairned track leads into the valley. The track passes many small cliffs before a big blank wall is reached. Just to the left is a short wall with some trad routes (19-22) upon it, and down by the creek is the Rivendell boulder. The next cliff is Sweet Dude block, with 3 sport routes. From here, the track veers down towards, and then along, the creek. It then passes through (!) a boulder and swings uphill past the Beard Boulder (some mega hard highball plus a few slabby sport routes) and up to the main cliff, arriving at its left hand end. 20 minutes. The Empire of the Sun cave is just around the corner. From here the track branches off – heading down across the creek to the X Blox (2 minutes), or by continuing up the cliff line to the Solarium (10 minutes). The valley is littered with boulders. It appears most have been climbed and named but which is which is anyone’s guess so it’s a great spot to just go and explore and climb whatever appeals. Expect a little overgrowth and downed trees along the way and the track can easily be lost in sections, but recent track works makes it relatively straightforward.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Obvious arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

FA: Kent Paterson, 2017

2 great face climbs (with two easier aretes upon which to warm up) are the attraction here. When combined with some of the newer sport offerings on Crag X it makes for a good day out. A cruisy access also helps! From the far end of Crag X (Empire of the Sun cave with some good moderate sport routes off the ledge and some futuristic projects to the right) follow the cairned track down across the creek and a short distance up the other side of the valley, to arrive at the cliff after passing through a shady chasm. It faces west so stays shaded until about 2.

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, Feb 2016

A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors.

FA: Andrew 'my love is hard' Clements & Alex Trnovsky, Jul 2016

Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ball Bagg, Feb 2016

According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, Feb 2016

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

FA: Bilbo Beggins & Brett Dodemaide, Feb 2016

The big cave at the far left end of Crag X originally contained one trad route but has been recently modernised with lots of stainless. Unfortunately someone has deemed it necessary to bolt the huge boulder at the base. At least 2 of the three "routes" bolted had previously been soloed.

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015

The next line right of Solar Flare. Tricky slab, amazing jugs and a spicy finish.

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015

Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock.

FA: Doug McConnell, 6 Jul 2016

The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

  1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets. Double U bolt belay has been added to top.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd (alt), 1989

The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground.

FA: Kerrin gale, 29 May 2018

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

FA: Doug McConnell, 31 May 2018

Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors.

FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, 2016

Follow the natural ramp up the right side of the Empire of the Sun cave. The three routes lie on the wall above, requiring a committing scramble up the short corner.

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

FA: B Abernethy

An impressive piece of rock that cannot be missed. Routes described left to right.

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

  1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and belay on ledge.

  2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd (alt) & Parrish Robbins., 1989

The only slab for miles.

Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

  1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of block.

  2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1989

Line of old dodgy eye bolts up striking flake feature on detached block. Probably unclimbed, very hard at the top. Needs rebolting, new anchor bolts in place but no hangers.

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse. There are two lines; one under the roof, and one two metres below, so who knows which one to take. They both look juggy albeit with a touch of loose rock and no pro, so make sure you're second isn't you...

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1989

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.

  1. 25m (12) Mossy face into awesome orange cave, followed by a mossy chimney to belay on a mossy chockstone. Strangely enjoyable.

  2. 35m (18) The original description: delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. The reality: awesome unlikely climbing to gain the corner proper, wish you had a dust mask past the poo cave, then brilliant orange rock to the top without a bridge in sight. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt) & Keith Lockwood, 1989

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

FA: Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley & Paul Tailien, 2005

A large freestanding boulder in the valley just below the main cliff.

An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts.

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2004

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

FA: N Smith & Ben Eichler, 2005

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug.

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

FA: 2004

Sit start for eye candy.

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

Well before the main cliff, this orange scooped cliff appears immediately after the big smooth red wall. The routes are perfect for warming up, or even as a worthwhile destination for a quick easy-access session.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

A much better way to sample Dude's start. From the 2nd RB head up and right past 3FH to chains.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2016

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains.

A small trad wall with 4 short trad routes in the 19-22 range. When you reach the big blank red/orange wall, look left, and there it is. A little further towards the creek lies the Rivendell boulder with some amazing-looking hard problems upon it's overhangs.

FA: Benjamin Eichler

Located in Cave at right side of main wall. Sit start out R) to dyno from poor crimp to jug

FA: 2005

Traverse L) out of Miggerra


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