Crag X Guide

Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors.

Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity.

According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish.

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

The next line right of Solar Flare. Tricky slab, amazing jugs and a spicy finish.

Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock.

The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets. Double U bolt belay has been added to top.

The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground.

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

Climbs the wall to the right of the huge cave. Great rock and pro. To access, traverse carefully across the slabby rock at the right hand end of the cave (easy but exposed) to the base of the wall and double bolt belay. Climb straight up to the ledge (where the Misty Wall routes start) then straight up wall above to double bolt anchors.

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and belay on ledge.

2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

A line of rings. Might be Chris Coppard's project?

Line of fixed hangers that comes out of Unknown 1.

The only slab for miles.

Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff.

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of block.

2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

Line of old dodgy eye bolts up striking flake feature on detached block. Probably unclimbed, very hard at the top. Needs rebolting, new anchor bolts in place but no hangers.

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse. There are two lines; one under the roof, and one two metres below, so who knows which one to take. They both look juggy albeit with a touch of loose rock and no pro, so make sure you're second isn't you...

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.

1. 25m (12) Mossy face into awesome orange cave, followed by a mossy chimney to belay on a mossy chockstone. Strangely enjoyable.

2. 35m (18) The original description: delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. The reality: awesome unlikely climbing to gain the corner proper, wish you had a dust mask past the poo cave, then brilliant orange rock to the top without a bridge in sight. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts.

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug.

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

Sit start for eye candy.

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

A much better way to sample Dude's start. From the 2nd RB head up and right past 3FH to chains.

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains.

Located in Cave at right side of main wall. Sit start out R) to dyno from poor crimp to jug

Traverse L) out of Miggerra