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Currajong Rocks

  • Grade context: AU

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

9

Description

Currajong Rocks is a surprisingly extensive series of pinnacles and buttresses of compact, brown sandstone lurking under forest. Some climbs will “clean up with traffic”.

Area and climbs taken from VCC Mt Difficult online update 2007. https://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Mt-Difficult-Update_2007_08.pdf

Access issues inherited from Eastern Mt Difficult Range

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

Approach

ollow the Halls Gap-Mt Zero road N from the Red Gum Lease Track for 2.1 km to where it is crossed by a vehicle track. Turn left (West) on this and follow it for 400 m to an intersection. Turn right (North) for 200 m. (Two-wheel-drive to here.) Walk uphill (W) through open forest for 450 m. All climbs are cairned. They are described from left to right, first on the lower cliff, then the upper. Cliffs faces East. Walking time ten minutes to lower cliff, 15 minutes to upper cliff.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Routes

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Grade Route

One-move wonder, but a hard one. At left end of best section of lower cliff is a pinnacle with a cave behind it on right. Easily up left arête of pinnacle to shallow, brushed groove on left. Finish up this. Abseil descent.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Sustained and good. Line through bulges up front of pinnacle, starting from right. Abseil descent.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 2002

Sustained. Crack in middle of wall right of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Delicate finish. Slabby, NE-facing wall 10 m right of Bogan Buster, starting from small pointed boulder.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Brushed slab 10m up right of SS, at right end of lower cliff.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Excellent, steep climb up front of pinnacle at left end of upper cliff. Start in corner behind conifer. Go up right to foot of crack. Steeply up this and easier line above. Belay for descent.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 2002

Left side of gully up right of Light of Day. Up thin crack around overhang to ledge. Step right across gap between blocks to the next wall. Nice moves up thin right curving crack to arête, then up this.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Right of LD is a broad descent gully. Right of this is a face with three cracks. Climb middle one until it peters out. Step right, then up.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002

Prominent line with some doubtful rock at right end of upper cliff. Left-facing diagonal to cave. Step left to undercut crack then up. Abseil off.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 22 Feb
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