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Syria Mostly Trad climbing 10 routes in crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 5
10
AU
10131517

Seasonality

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Summary

Pleasant middle grade routes with easy access and handy abseil descent.

Access issues inherited from Eastern Mt Difficult Range

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

Approach

1km north from where Pines Road joins the Halls Gap - Mt Zero Rd [at the Pine Plantation campsite]. Walk or drive up the 4wd track on the left/west for 400m to the cross road [straight on takes you to Lebanon]. Turn right and follow the track for 200m. Walk up hill about 200m then head R and cross the creek. Walk up the R side of the creek to the cliff. A 15 minute walk from the Halls Gap/Mt Zero road or 5 minutes if you drive in.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Contents

Routes

 Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
17 ★ Prince in a Pauper’s Grave Sport 12m, 2

Fun little slab route on good clean rock. Left of the main buttress is a recessed slabby wall with a distinctive crack at its R hand side. Face L of crack past 2 FH to ledge with FH. Belay [back up bolt with small cams at back of ledge]. Walk off to R [belayed] and descend gully

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 18 Oct 2014

2
10 Echidna’s Air Conditioner Trad 10m

The short crack on lovely water washed rock. A summer route as this is the source of the creek in winter and it is then more of a spring than a climb. Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 18 Oct 2014

Main Buttress Back to contents

The main section of the cliff is a slabby wall with orange overhangs at the top. There are abseil chains to the right at the top of cliff. 35m abseil.

It is possible to descend after all of the first pitches from Umayyad to Antioch by traversing easily left into a sloping walk/chimney and following this out to a short descent gully.

4
14 Umayyad Trad 40m, 2

Starting at the LH edge of the main block is a big diagonal fault line which crosses the entire main buttress. Start at the foot of this

  1. 10m 13. Up the surprisingly awkward R leading crack to deep ledge.

  2. 15m 14. Step out L and up to ledge [escape possible down chimney]. Pull across gap [could be much harder for the short] and up to orange overhang. Take line through this and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody [alts], 27 Sep 2014

5
10 Six Cents Trad 20m

The main section of the cliff has a slabby wall with orange overhangs at the top. Just L of this slab is an obvious wide crack. Up the juggy wall L of the crack to a deep ledge, continue up R ward to ledge below overhangs. Finish up one of the top pitches.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Sep 2014

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6
14 ★ Terror Alert Trad 36m, 2
  1. 28m 14. Start at the foot of the wide crack as for Six Cents. Head up the steep flake on the R finishing up juggy groove to ledge. 2 18m 12. A wild traverse along the lower break though the overhangs to the crack. Up this. Could be hard to start for the height challenged. Best to place a high runner before starting.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 13 Sep 2014

7
13 ★ Holy Hand Grenade Mixed trad 35m, 2, 1

2 interesting pitches. Start at the L arête of the slab, down and R of Six Cents.

  1. 20m 13 Up past FH to ledge/ramp. Up short flake then slab between 2 left most seams to steeper headwall, up this exiting slightly L onto easier ground. Belay at half way ledge.

  2. 15m 13. Up into break behind ledge. Step out L and up steeply to below roof. Step L and up at break. This is the best of the finishes above the half way ledge.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 27 Sep 2014

8
15 ★ Antioch Mixed trad 35m, 2, 2

An enjoyable face with adequate protection. 1.5 R of Holy Hand Grenade

  1. 20m 15. Up slab to bottom of ramp, step out R to FH and up face to 2nd FH. Straight up steepening stepping L to belay on big ledge. Small cams useful.

  2. 15m 14. Up and R to horizontal crack below overhang, traverse R to nose. Pull over steeply then finish on easy rock.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 13 Sep 2014

9
14 ★ Damascus Trad 35m, 2

Very nice first pitch.

  1. 20m 14. The seam 1m R of Antioch, small wires needed. Step L below the ledge and finish up steeper wall to below overhangs.

  2. 15m 12. Follow easy line up R for 6m. Pull over gully onto steep wall on L and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 13 Sep 2014

10
11 ★ Caliphate Trad 35m

The easy angled arête R of Damascus. Step R below the tree and up the face above between the 2 seams to a ledge. Finish up rib R of wide crack/gully.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 27 Sep 2014

11
14 Iskenderun Trad 35m, 2

R of the main lower slab of the cliff is a black slab. Start 2m L of the blocky corner on its R.

  1. 20m 14 Up just L of corner to horizontal. Climb up to second grassy horizontal. Move 2m L and up sparsely protected slab to big ledge.

  2. 15m 12 Step out L around overhang. Up flake finishing just to L when it runs out.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 18 Oct 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Grampians Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Grampians Climbing Guide

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Grampians Bouldering Guide

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Buy
ⓘ

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