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Description
Just North of the Promised Land, Lebanon is a continuation from the broken slabs at the R end of that cliff. Unusually for the Grampians the cliff has a number of multi pitch slab routes. Middle grade slab climbs predominate and they all need natural pro to supplement bolts. Quality is variable but the access and descents are easy. Jihad Jack is probably the pick of the routes. At the top of the first pitch of Jihad Jack is a DBB and abseil chains. Many of the routes converge at this belay as this approach avoids having to cross any bushy ledges. The 2 pitch routes all use one of the two DBBs and abseil anchors and chains at the top of Jihad Jack or Jack Thomas. 2 ropes are needed for the abseils, altho’ a single 60m would suffice for the lower abseil and the descent from above Jack Thomas. Some of the glue in carrots are awkward to clip [we put them in a bit deep], flat rather than angled brackets work best or carry some wires.
Access issues inherited from Eastern Mt Difficult Range
Designated
The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.
The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.
Approach
<5 min
Drive North about 1 km from the Pine Plantation Campground heading towards Roses Gap to the 2nd 4wd track on the L. Walk or drive up to the end of this and continue to the cliff. Head L along the foot of the broken cliff until you hit a large slabby area bounded on the R by a bushy gully between it and a big steep buttress. This is the RH end of the cliff where Hezbollah is. About 10mins walk from the road, 5 mins from top car park. If you walk L along the foot of the cliff from the Hezbollah area for about 250m you come to an area of grey slabs a bit like a lump of the North Jawbone transported to the Grampians. The slabs are bounded on the L by an easy angled square cut corner.
Descent notes
There are DBB abseil anchors covering most of the routes on the main slabs.
Ethic inherited from Grampians
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2009
ISBN: 958733147
With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.
Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter
Date: 2015
ISBN: 9780994278401
Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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