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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago
16

Summary

Cliffs face south. Walking time 10 minutes. GR 305843

Description

More good climbing in the Epacris Hills. These cliffs are a series of three south-facing walls with a magnificent outlook towards Western Wall and beyond. The rock is mostly excellent grey pocketed rock giving steep climbing.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Up Pocketed to before big pocket.Traverse left across thin wall to arête. Up this, veering left.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

This outcrop is known for its amazing pockets. Jump up through perfect hand slots above cave on left cliff.Straight on up over overlaps to pimply finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993

Pocketed line and wall immediately right of Pocketed.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993

Grey, shallow corner starting out of right side of cave and 2m left of '586 BC'. Straight up wall, then black pimply wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993

Steep crack on left of wall left of Fencing The Fridge. Finish up middle of buttress on poor rock.

FA: Ed Neve, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1995

Excellent, steep pocket-pulling.Pocketed thin crack 3m right of cave on left cliff. Step right and over overhang. Up seam above, then finish by pimply groove.

FA: Chris Baxter & Wayne Maher, 1992

Left one of twin cracks 9m left of Fencing The Fridge to ledge at 8m. Traverse right to middle of wall. Up black streaks.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer & Mike Woolridge, 1998

Up 4m right of Crescent Moon.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh & Mike Woolridge

Crack 2m left of arête immediately left of Fencing The Fridge, and 2m right of Boy Racer. Corner, then pocketed wall.

FA: Mike Woolridge, Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1998

Bold start.1m left of The Fall Of Jerusalem, on middle cliff. Straight up pocketed seam to ledge. On up the lovely wall keeping on its left side until near top, when it is best to veer right into The Fall Of Jerusalem.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Chris Baxter, 1993

Slender buttress facing southeast on middle cliff. Distinguished by flake torn off at 6m. Finish up right arête to cave. Exit up right.

FA: Chris Baxter & Wayne Maher, 1992

Open corner 5m right of Fencing The Fridge, then right through bulges to sloping ledge. Delicately up ‘pimpled’ corner to shelf. Follow ledge round left. Corner to ledge. Belay.

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1995

Good, steep pocket-pulling.Sustained.Climb pocketed seam on buttress 5mright of The Fall Of Jerusalem to ledge.Go 2m right and climb overhang and seam above.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1992

Scary ceiling.Take #3½ and #4 Friends. Crack, then roof, on right cliff 2m right of suspended boulder.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1992

A nasty business! Line 5m right of Heartland, on right cliff. Loose and scary line is carefully climbed to an airy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Chris Baxter, 1993

Incipient crack to break 2m right of Shingles, then groove.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1998

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