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Routes in Eureka Area for selected grade

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Spanish Galleon
23 Pirate Life

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Set: Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mar 2016

Sport 26m, 9
Eureka Wall
23 Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Mixed trad 30m, 5
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 10m
Clean Cut Walls
23 Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson

Sport 30m, 11
23 Trouble Cut

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 14m, 7
23 Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Sport 20m, 10
23 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 15m, 10
23 Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

Sport 20m, 12
The Red Sail
23 Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Mixed trad 45m, 3
Weirs Creek West Side
23 Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha & Anthony Pattison, 13 Sep 2014

Sport 20m, 9
Weirs Creek
23 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Sport 20m, 9
23 Barefoot and Poignant

Now completely superseded.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 2011

Sport 20m, 10
23 Fairy Footsteps

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mar 2016

Sport 28m, 12
23 Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2013

Sport 20m, 9
23 Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil

Sport 25m, 9
Gondwanaland
23 Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Trad 50m
The Lost World
23 Malcolm and Andy's New route

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, Nov 2014

Mixed trad 70m, 2, 2
23 Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Mixed trad 32m, 3
23 Lost in Antiquity

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 31 Aug 2014

Trad 40m, 2
23 Temple of Doom

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 21 Nov 2015

Trad 50m

Showing all 20 routes.

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