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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has issued the following advice regarding rock climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians (updated February 2022): https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

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Created 3 months ago

description

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks.

Start: The severely overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of the well chalked mini route of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

© (nmonteith)

Route history

20 Oct 1992First ascent: Matthew Brooks

Warnings

22 Mar 2022 Warning Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.89659, 142.38886

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

24 Assigned grade
24(S) private
24 private
24(S) Grampians Selected Climbs
24 *** ACA Route Register
25 [25 - 26] ++ grAId
26 The North Grampians Update

ethic

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

inherited from Grampians

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 87 ratings.

Difficulty - 24

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

24

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 14
Flash 4
Red point 29
Tick 18
Top rope 2
Attempt 52
Target 4

Comment keywords

runout fall rad good fabulous fun stoked nice beautiful great super awesome classic amazing fantastic hands crazy crack steep jamming layback rest feet awkward dynamic pockets interesting offwidth tired struggle powerful tough pumped desperate hard solid peeled off difficult crux sustained challenging

Activity

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