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Main Face

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 34

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

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Access issues inherited from Blazed Rock

On the prioritised assessment list

©

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

FA: Matt White & Caillan Sainsbury, 1 Nov 2014

Step off the ledge onto the hanging face. Move up the overlap. Climb a crack on the right through the bulge then up taking either of the two cracks.

Start: Scramble up to a ledge on the left hand side of the south-facing wall.

FA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987

Undercling then layback out of the cave and move up to an overlap. Move slightly right and climb the wall to a groove high on the face and an easy finish.

Start: Starts as for Punchdrunk.

FA: Chris Cope & Carol Robinson, 1987

Quite nice.

Start: Starts left of Thunderbirds Are Go! at the cave just left of the arete on the main cliff.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust, Gelnn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983

Sustained route on (mostly) great rock that weaves its way up the arete at the left end of the cliff; sure to get you pumped. Typically started just left of the arete, but can also be started just right of the arete. Snakes to the right of the arete at about half height, then finishes up the corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, Kevin Lindorff - Alt. Leads - as well as Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, Michael Wust & Lady Penelope (originally done in two pitches), 1983

Up past a bolt (crux) to easier ground.

Start: The major line equidistant from 'Grim Reaper' and Thunderbirds Are Go!

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991

Go left and up into the corner just right of an easy line. Climb the corner to the ledge, easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: From the small ledge on 'International Rescue'

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rob Nabben, 1991

Start: Jam crack left of 'Grumpy'

FA: Ian (Humzoo) Thomas, Phil Cullen & Andrew Bowman, 1977

Guide books describe this as "It makes you grumpy because it is harder than it looks". Consensus is that it makes you grumpy because it is harder than it is graded! Leaders should be confident at around grade 15/16 before tackling this climb.

Start: Start beneath the obvious chimney/offwidth (initialed) close to the centre of the face.

FA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970

Power and finesse.

Start: 3m left of 'All Out'

FA: Mike Law, 1992

Peg(!) the the crack to the bulge then up to the sloping ledge at 18m. Move right to the corner and continue free to the top.

Start: 28m left of 'Not Out'

FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1972

Up the crack past a ledge and tree(?) to the top.

Start: 7m left of 'Gnome'

FA: Harley Burke & David Burke, 1970

A great climb.

Start: Right end of the cliff beneath an overhang (initialled).

FA: Bob Connell & Bruno Zielke, 1970

Climb the flake-crack to overlap. Step right to arete. Up corner.

Start: Curving flake-crack 2.5m left of 'Gnome'.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997

Previously overlooked for good reason.

Start: Corner right of 'Gnome' then continue up and left on wall to ledge. Left arête.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 25 Jul
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