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Mirranatwa Gap

  • Grade context: AU

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 8 months ago
2
AU
6

Summary

Cliff faces west. Walking time 20 minutes. GR 283562

Description

Sharp peak with easy slabs seen from Jensens Road in the Victoria Valley. Park on the Gap.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

400m west of the Gap and 300m east of a quarry, enter thick bush on the south side of the road and walk uphill for 10-15 minutes to foot of slabs.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
  1. 50m Rope-length up from toe of main slab to boulders.

  2. 50m Traverse 4m right to nose. Slab to break in overlap. Diagonally left to shallowgroove at foot of corner.

  3. 30m Up left below overlap to black block. Up through overlaps to big crack and stance.

  4. 50m Slab to top of pinnacle. Scramble 30m along ridge to foot of next slab.

  5. 46m Right arête to top of pinnacle. To notch behind.

  6. 10m Slab. Descend by following ridge (roped at first) past summit. Follow ridge down to Gap.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling (alt), 1992

Climbs slab left of main slab of the Last Unicorn, then crosses gully between and joins The Last Unicorn.

  1. 45m Slab to overlap, up beside it, then step right over it. Up to second overlap on right. Over it.

  2. 47m (3; no pro) Step left and climb slab to bushes and huge blocks.

  3. 26m Veer right to over-lap. Up on to block. Shift belay right across gully.

  4. 40m (crux) From horizontal break, go up right over slabs and overlaps to join The Last Unicorn atop pitch three.

FA: Peter Watling & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1993

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