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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago
7
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

Ship sized boulder with plenty of potential high balls and hard problems.

Access issues inherited from Mountain Lion

The Mountain Lion road sign is currently a burnt pole, so when approaching from the Henty Hwy side of the valley keep your eyes open for a small sandy car park on the right hand side of the road just after the Victoria Range Fire Trail gate (on left).

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Approach

Large bloc off the left side of path past pride rock (down towards gully)

Ethic inherited from Mountain Lion

This area has been quite badly burnt from the 2013 fires. Please keep to the foot pads as much as possible to stop further erosion.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on low jug, move through slopey rail into seam.

FA: Jimmy Stephens

Start on low jug move to slopey rail and move left to jugs.

FA: Louis Godsell, 4 Jul 2014

Sit start directly below pocketed wall, climb straight up through pockets to tallest part of boulder.

FA: Troy Mckenzie, 13 Sep 2014

On your knees captain. Crouch start with right hand on crimp and left hand on rounded side pull and up through slopes to easy, but tall top out.

FA: Troy Mckenzie

Novelty. Jump start into slopey jug, top out via seam. Add a direct start from low seam if you can, will be tricky.

FA: Jimmy Stephens

Start as for Rapuntzel, solve an interesting slab traverse to join into CF, finishing up this.

FA: Goshen Watts, 16 Aug 2015

Let down your hair... But don't punt off the top! Climb on tall arête through jugs and seams. Make committing mantle over the lip.

FA: Louis Godsell

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