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Lion Tamer Block

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago
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BLDV

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Description

Some short problems on a big boulder located directly out (West) from the Mr Blobby boulder problems.

Access issues inherited from Mountain Lion

The Mountain Lion road sign is currently a burnt pole, so when approaching from the Henty Hwy side of the valley keep your eyes open for a small sandy car park on the right hand side of the road just after the Victoria Range Fire Trail gate (on left).

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Approach

Walk directly out (West) from the Mr Blobby boulder problems.

Ethic inherited from Mountain Lion

This area has been quite badly burnt from the 2013 fires. Please keep to the foot pads as much as possible to stop further erosion.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Very low sit start with jug and small feet. Go directly up. This is also the descent route.

Start crouched with feet on sloping ledge and hands on two juggy crimps. Move left across juggy break and up the vertical rail above. Sit start can also be done, but it’s much harder (or for an easier sit start variation - start as for Down Boy).

Start as for Carnivore and go straight up using only the crack.

Start as for Carnivore, move right and up the break through the left side of bulge.

Start as for Carnivore, move right around front of bulge, gain jug on the lip and finish with a fun mantle.

Sit Start on undercut arete, make difficult pull off ground and up.

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