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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago
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Description

Furthest Wall from car park, up left from The Lion In Winter. Descent is either walk off the back and around or descend down exposed chimney (grade 4) between 'Who is Vanya?' and 'Here Kitty'

Access issues inherited from Mountain Lion

The Mountain Lion road sign is currently a burnt pole, so when approaching from the Henty Hwy side of the valley keep your eyes open for a small sandy car park on the right hand side of the road just after the Victoria Range Fire Trail gate (on left).

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Ethic inherited from Mountain Lion

This area has been quite badly burnt from the 2013 fires. Please keep to the foot pads as much as possible to stop further erosion.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Seidel, 1991

Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.

FA: Julie Nitschke & Campbell Mercer, 1991

Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991

A bit sparse on gear in sections Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake. Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line.

FA: James McIntosh & Peter Watling, 1989

Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb. Up to and along the crack.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Treby, 1990

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

FA: Rob Pease & Monica Gallus, 1991

Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.

FA: Neil Barr, Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1988

Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.

FA: Peter Treby, 1988

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Seidel, 1991

Not well-protected. Thin crack 1.5 metres left of the descent chimney.

FA: Peter Treby & Neil Barr, 1988

The crack just left of "Here Kitty", starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush.

FA: Peter Watling & James McIntosh, 1989

Thin line just left of "Flea Bait".

FA: Peter Treby, 1988

The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow. Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Masticating Mice" near the "arete".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1992

Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct.

FA: James McIntosh & Peter Watling, 1989

This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

FA: Jill Pearce, Jo Whitelaw, Michael Mulcairn & Peter Watling, 1993

A few metres right of "Watcha Gonna Call It" is a bottomless corner. A few metres right of Watcha Gonna Call It is a bottomless corner. Step off the block under the overhang to gain the corner and follow it.

FA: Peter Watling & Michael Mulcairn, 1993

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Activity

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