Showing all 29 routes.
The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.
|18||★ Stone Free
|14 M2||The Velvet Glove
|20||★ Kid Gloves
|16||The Velvet Vice
|21||★ Classic Collector
A climb of considerable quality considering its location. The leader used a rest 4m below the belay, eliminated by the second. There is an abseil anchor on the ledge. This is also a better place to finish Harassed Tweed. Start at Harassed Tweed. Move up and left past a fixed wire to a rest, then step back right and continue straight up to belay ledge.
FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1994
|17||★ Black Velvet
|20||★★ Stranger Love
Starts as for NLAS, but takes the faint RH crack. Traverse R through bulges up to small ledge on nose. Excellent sustained climbing up faint crack (accepts good small wires) leads up to ledge. Dicey direct start might be possible. Pitch 2 as for NLAS.
FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 9 Mar 2014
|17||★★ Never Love a Stranger
Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (wires & small friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.
FA: Russell Crow, Allan Hope & Terry Tremble, 1983
|15||★ No Stranger Love
An obvious corner/crack-line that climbs quite well, although a little loose on the top half. Up bulges as for NLAS, trending left to crack and L facing corner, which is followed to ledge. Do the 2nd pitch of NLAS (about 17) to top out.
Can rope traverse left to DRB on RRCC after first pitch.
FA: Chris Leidy & Goshen Watts, 9 Mar 2014
Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at the groove starting from a ledge, accessed from Old English gully. (The initial short corner was avoided because it was dirty and poorly protected, however, it was seconded.) Up the groove just left of the arête past natural pro and a bolt. Continue to the second bolt then step right onto the arête. Up a few metres to belay on a small ledge. Traverse off right into Cream Cheese and to the large ledge.
FA: Glen Donohue & Graeme Smith, 1994
Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.
|15||Handle With Care
|15||Handle With Care Direct Start
Makes the route independent of Cream Cheese. Start on the same ledge as Never Love A Stranger. Up left leaning crack into the wide crack of Handle With Care (where it traverses from Cream Cheese).
FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1994
|23||★ Rings, RPs, Chalk & Cheese
Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.
FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998
|14||★ Old English
|16||Old English Variant Finish
Up 'Old English' for 2m, step right, climb centre of face to exit top right, on arête.
FA: Ramon Francis & Catherine Francis, 1998
|20||★ Shadow Road
FA: Jim Nelson Dick Curtis
On the wall R of Shadow Road there is a major crack line near the arete. The crack starts above a bulging lower wall. Start down and L of the crack.
FA: Richard Curtis 1, 2 & Jim Nelson 3, 1979
Showing all 29 routes.