Routes in The Cheesecake

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Showing all 29 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Final Straw
Trad 42m
8 Flay

The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.

Trad 25m
18 Stone Free
Trad 27m
16 Great Peter
Trad 50m
14 M2 The Velvet Glove
Aid 63m, 2
20 Kid Gloves
Trad 70m
16 The Velvet Vice
Trad 63m
21 Classic Collector

A climb of considerable quality considering its location. The leader used a rest 4m below the belay, eliminated by the second. There is an abseil anchor on the ledge. This is also a better place to finish Harassed Tweed. Start at Harassed Tweed. Move up and left past a fixed wire to a rest, then step back right and continue straight up to belay ledge.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1994

Trad 20m
17 Black Velvet
Trad 66m
17 Harassed Tweed
Trad 70m
20 Stranger Love

Starts as for NLAS, but takes the faint RH crack. Traverse R through bulges up to small ledge on nose. Excellent sustained climbing up faint crack (accepts good small wires) leads up to ledge. Dicey direct start might be possible. Pitch 2 as for NLAS.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 9 Mar 2014

Trad 30m
17 Never Love a Stranger

Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (wires & small friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.

  1. 30m, Crux. Delicately up bulges in middle of wall, trending left until it is possible to traverse right on black pockets into the crack. Great climbing up this to ledge below ceiling.

  2. Up to short L facing corner to roof, then step around R and climb chossy wall above - either finish through two noses, or belay beneath them and walk off right.

FA: Russell Crow, Allan Hope & Terry Tremble, 1983

Trad 55m, 2
15 No Stranger Love

An obvious corner/crack-line that climbs quite well, although a little loose on the top half. Up bulges as for NLAS, trending left to crack and L facing corner, which is followed to ledge. Do the 2nd pitch of NLAS (about 17) to top out.

Can rope traverse left to DRB on RRCC after first pitch.

FA: Chris Leidy & Goshen Watts, 9 Mar 2014

Trad 30m
16 Green Haze

Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at the groove starting from a ledge, accessed from Old English gully. (The initial short corner was avoided because it was dirty and poorly protected, however, it was seconded.) Up the groove just left of the arête past natural pro and a bolt. Continue to the second bolt then step right onto the arête. Up a few metres to belay on a small ledge. Traverse off right into Cream Cheese and to the large ledge.

FA: Glen Donohue & Graeme Smith, 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 2
11 Cream Cheese

Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.

Trad 76m
15 Handle With Care
Trad 60m
15 Handle With Care Direct Start

Makes the route independent of Cream Cheese. Start on the same ledge as Never Love A Stranger. Up left leaning crack into the wide crack of Handle With Care (where it traverses from Cream Cheese).

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1994

Trad 30m
23 Rings, RPs, Chalk & Cheese

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 1
14 Old English
Trad 57m
16 Old English Variant Finish
Trad 40m
16 Concrete Scones

Up 'Old English' for 2m, step right, climb centre of face to exit top right, on arête.

FA: Ramon Francis & Catherine Francis, 1998

Trad 25m
12 Muffin Gully
Trad 54m
16 Barguentine
Trad 60m
15 Sharks-head Groove
Trad 72m
16 Sepulchrave
Trad 66m
20 Shadow Road

FA: Jim Nelson Dick Curtis

Trad 82m
20 Cracked

On the wall R of Shadow Road there is a major crack line near the arete. The crack starts above a bulging lower wall. Start down and L of the crack.

  1. 18m [20] Up and R following awkward seams and ledges to the foot of the crack. Hanging belay.

  2. 32m [19] The crack to a good ledge on the R.

  3. 22m [17] Step out R and pick your way up the grooves to the final steep crack thru’ the top bulge.

FA: Richard Curtis 1, 2 & Jim Nelson 3, 1979

Trad 72m, 3
17 Steerpike
Trad 61m
15 Sourdust
Trad 69m

Showing all 29 routes.

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