Routes in Middle Cliff

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
13 The Dutchess

A good third pitch but vegetad elsewhere. Climbs chimney at L hand end of face.

Trad 120m, 4
18 Vixen on Heat

Good crack on 3rd P. Starts as for Duchess leaving it on P2 to go diagonally R to the crack.

Trad 150m, 4
18 Titus Groan

Excellent outing, steep, sustained and varied. This description includes the direct variants added on the first free ascent. Start: R of Duchess.

  1. 32m (17) From below 2 overhangs 22m up Traverse L to avoid the first overhang then R just below the 2nd. Go through it and climb the corner above.

  2. 15m (13) Go a little R and up grey crack.

  3. 30m (18) Up corner for 3m. Traverse L and go up to stance. Exciting moves around overhang then crack to ceiling. Traverse R to exposed ledge.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse R to ledge which is a little lower than the one you leave.

  5. 35m (13) Up wall above. Diagonally up L to ceilings. Crawl L, up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Michael Stone & Ian ross, 1972

FFA: Chris Baxter & Peter McKeand, 1977

Trad 150m, 5
17 Titus Groan Variant

Included in above description

Trad 57m
15 Titus Groan Direct Finish

Included in above description

Trad 140m
17 Stifled Groan
Trad 140m
16 M1 Slackus Grunt
Aid 130m, 2
14 Gormenghast

A mega line with some mega choss. The big corner in the middle of the face for 5 pitches.

Trad 130m
17 Humble Pie

Takes the big R curving corner heading R out of Gormenghast. The first 10m unfortunately are very dirty and vegetated. Once Gormenghast is left the climbing cleans up and improves enormously.

  1. 48m (14) Start up the revolting choss that is Gormenghast until a line leads out and R to a tree.

  2. 50m (17) Continue in the line to the roof then on up the mega line above. Carry a fairly comprehensive rack for this sustained pitch.

  3. 44m (10) Up wall for a little, R to arête, then up R to summit ceiling which is passed on L.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter & Alan Gledhill, 1973

Trad 140m
18 Ultima Thule

Goes up middle of wall between Humble Pie and Flower Power. Start by cave right of Gormenghast.

  1. 30m Right leading line to ledge on left edge of giant cave, roofs.

  2. 40m Move off cliff after reaching it to arrive at blocky terrace under overhangs. Belay 7m left. Wall tending right until above roofs, then mantel to cave. Up from right of cave to stance.

  3. 40m Wall tending left to short, overhanging weakness in cliff-girdling band. Wall to stance.

  4. 30m Veer left up wall to small, vertical wall with horizontal cracks. Up to overlap, then left and up to terrace.

  5. 10m Through summit roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1994

Trad 150m, 5
19 Flower Power

A major line which might be a good climb. Towards the RH end of the cliff is a prominent line with a roof on the L at 23m

  1. 32m (-) Climb vegetated crack to narrow ledge below overhang. Go R on this to corner.

  2. 18m (19) L up ramp, then thin crack to ledge.

  3. 30m (15) Up line to small ledge in chimney.

  4. 42m (-) Chimney then corner to below steep wall.

  5. 22m (-) Up obvious weakness in wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Gledhill, 1971

FFA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1977

Trad 140m
16 The Fuchsia

A strong direct line offering good climbing. Start: 8m R of Flower Power.

  1. 25m (15) Up steep wall via a thin crack to a small ledge. Move R to main corner.

  2. 27m (14) Corner to crack in L wall of main corner. Up corner to ledge under chockstone.

  3. 27m (15) Up RH corner to ceiling. Traverse R to nose of buttress. Up over block and back to line. Up to bushy ledge.

  4. 30m (16) Up and onto L wall and up through overhangs. Continue up to small ledge on L. An exciting pitch.

  5. Line to top.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Trad 130m
10 A Bit o' the Other
Trad 150m
18 Blueberry Oasis

Starts as for A Bit o' the Other.

  1. 25m Up to belay in scrub where it becomes possible to traverse right.

  2. 15m Traverse right to front of buttress. Up to ledge.

  3. 15m Crack and line to stance 3m below roof.

  4. 30m Roof and crack to ledge.

  5. 40m Right and up to tree. Scramble off.

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1993

Trad 130m, 5
16 Pie in the Sky
Trad 110m

Showing all 15 routes.

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