Routes in Northern Cliff

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
12 Mouse

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

FA: Peter Treby, John Cayley & JPW, 1980

Trad 190m, 5 Grampians
20 Luftwaffe

Considerable loose rock mars a strong line culminating in a spectacular position. Almost directly above the carpark is what appears to be a gully, but is the large vertical groove on the RHS of the main wall.

  1. Crux, From the base of this, climb the left wall and enter small R facing corner which leads to a bulge. Step L to a ledge.

  2. 25m, Pull over bulge and follow the line to a ledge on the R below the final roofs.

  3. 25m, the line above - exciting. The abseil tree is just to the R.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1990

Trad 75m, 3 Grampians

At the left end of the Northern Cliff is a large cave Start up the right arête of this cave where it meets the main face.

  1. 40m (17) Up through short crack and overhang, step left to belay, good ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Step right and up to roof move through on right, up and left to belay.

  3. 35m (15) Step right up to hand traverse under large roof at 15m up at its right end up to big ledge under large roof.

  4. 10m (17) Exit through weakness in right side/end of roof, gymnastic.

FA: Joseph O'Connell & Ramon Francis (alt), 1999

Trad 110m, 4 Grampians
20 Civilization

On this climb, moss is a renewable resource; but the climbing and gear is good, with very little in the way of loose rock. Start right where the track finally meets the middle of the cliff, just R of 2 distinct cairns. Could link the first 2 pitches. Bring double ropes, plenty of long slings and cams to size 3.

  1. 15m, 19. Straight up wall (poor pro), and over tricky bulge to a ledge.

  2. 10m, 15. Trend L up the wall for 10m, to semi-hanging belay in short shallow corner.

  3. 45m, 20. Climb up R from belay, heading for weakness through the overhangs at the base of the corner system. Scoot around to the R and up exciting wall above, traversing R, then straight up. A bit more R to hanging corner and up to belay, watch for rope drag.

  4. 30m, 20. Awkward around bush leads straight up to nice line / corner. Tackle on the L, and straight up past bushes to increasingly difficult L facing corner (save a #3 cam for the top of this!).

  5. 25m 17. Up series of ledges, walls and overhangs (more or less straight up), finishing just below top of cliff (watch out for some loose blocks at the top). Escape out R.

FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 18 Feb 2016

Trad 130m, 5 Grampians

Showing all 4 routes.

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