Help

Jimmy's Bloc

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 68
  • Aka: Dunkeld Boulder

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago
18

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A large Boulder with a great variety of climbing.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

100 metres from Gate at old Mt Abrupt walking trail. Park at gate, and walk west along obvious track until you reach the boulder, which you will be able to see from the gate. This property is private so please be respectful.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

History

View historical timeline

A thousands lives this boulder has lived. From very faint aboriginal rock art underneath the graffiti on the head wall (two figures), to fire pits and old bash in carrots. This boulder has gone from ancient shelter, picnic boulder, campground, car park to a now quiet bouldering spot. Please be mindful of the indigenous art underneath the Mt T 1973 graffiti, and don't add or climb routes on the blankish head wall (they would be V15 plus anyway)

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Sit start on nice jug feature near fire pit. Move up through crimps and pinches in nice features rock.

FA: Pommie Ian

Definitely not Flip Flops. Start as for Leather Bound Pound, but instead of heading left to good holds, make huge move directly up to a good rail. From here, work left and finish as per LBP. Add a grade if you're short.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 26 Jan 2016

An afterthought, but probably a better start. Sit start low in giant sloping rail, traverse right into featured crimps and up original Leather Bound Pound finish.

FA: James Stephens

Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds.

FA: Louis Godsell

Start as for Journey through the Cossmoss and move through cave using pinches, underclings and gastons to reach jugs and finish up Reclusive Genius. Should go at around V10

Starts on pockets as for Journey Through the Cossmoss then technical moves L all the way across the cave to finish at the start of LBP.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

A much nicer start that connects into the best bits of 'Reclusive Genius'. Start far left near fire pit on jugs (pockets etc), move into lip on slopes and jugs, traverse R via some hard moves into the jugs on Reclusive Genius and up as per that.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 12 Aug 2014

Classic, with a dinky start move. Sit at back of cave in middle of overhang with small edges, press into flake, pull up to crimps and make huge moves to good holds. (Old carrot bolt is out and can't be used for aid)

FA: Louis Godsell

On descent ramp, start on lowest point, and traverse L all the way and up Dirty!

Start 2m right of dirty! on big juggy flake and up.

Heading R not using jughy lay back is V2/3

The warm up route. Start in large pockets, move up through pinches and jugs to a precarious mantle. Watch the tree!

FA: James Stephens

Start with left on jug in cave, move left into side pull. Compress/squeeze your way up the arete till gaining ledge.

FA: James Stephens

Start in cave, on good pocket and jug, move up into the razor sharp crimps and move to slopey nothing's to gain jugs.

FA: Louis Godsell

Start low on sloping ramp, heel hook and slap along till you reach end of ramp and clamber over slopers.

FA: James Stephens

Start as of "He Wants My Hair Bernard" and continue traversing through rising lip, till you reach good holds.

FA: Goshen Watts

Start on with R hand on big side pull and L on undercling. Move up left into scoop and out left avoiding big ledge out left. Gain pockets then mantle up.

FA: Dick Lodge

Mantle madness. Start on dishes and climb up through bloc cave and reach for lip. Grovel and beg your way over the top. FA involved swear words for aid.

FA: Goshen Watts

Start just left of History of Screaming on giant undercling, move up on sharp pockets then left via slopey holds, finishing on the ramp.

FA: Jimmy, 2015

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Jimmy's Bloc.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文