Routes in Mt Abrupt

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Showing all 79 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Solent Cliff
11 Solent
Trad 70m
21 Whiplash
Trad 33m
17 Methane Magic

Up Whiplash (Cheesecake) for 2½m. Traverse up left on stepped flake. Finish up middle break in wall to bushy ledge. Descend as for Whiplash.

FA: Jack Lewis & Rob Martin, 1999

Trad 28m
17 Hapless Hammer Head

Up Whiplash for 21m. Traverse up left on stepped flake. Finish up middle break in wall to bushy ledge. "We lead this in the rain chucking off a fair bit of crap as we went which may have made it look more appealing to the chaps who did it on 17.1.99 and named it Methane Magic."

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1999

Trad 28m
18 Barracuda

Starts about 10m left of the right-hand end of Solent Cliff that has Whiplash on it. If you get to a recessed short orange wall, back up 10m. Starts in roofed V-corner. Step left and up first seam.

FA: Dalen Court & Ramon Francis, 1999

Trad 15m
22 Orange Roughly

Good fun. Follow cliff past Whiplash for about 30m and Orange Roughy wall is set back on your left. Up right side of steep little wall on good edges.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1999

Trad 11m
The Cheesecake
16 Final Straw
Trad 42m
8 Flay

The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.

Trad 25m
18 Stone Free
Trad 27m
16 Great Peter
Trad 50m
14 M2 The Velvet Glove
Aid 63m, 2
20 Kid Gloves
Trad 70m
16 The Velvet Vice
Trad 63m
21 Classic Collector

A climb of considerable quality considering its location. The leader used a rest 4m below the belay, eliminated by the second. There is an abseil anchor on the ledge. This is also a better place to finish Harassed Tweed. Start at Harassed Tweed. Move up and left past a fixed wire to a rest, then step back right and continue straight up to belay ledge.

FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1994

Trad 20m
17 Black Velvet
Trad 66m
17 Harassed Tweed
Trad 70m
20 Stranger Love

Starts as for NLAS, but takes the faint RH crack. Traverse R through bulges up to small ledge on nose. Excellent sustained climbing up faint crack (accepts good small wires) leads up to ledge. Dicey direct start might be possible. Pitch 2 as for NLAS.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 9 Mar 2014

Trad 30m
17 Never Love a Stranger

Looks amazing? Particularly for the grade - very thin crack (wires & small friends) up an inspiring wall. Starts just around the nose of the East facing wall, about 30m left of flay.

  1. 30m, Crux. Delicately up bulges in middle of wall, trending left until it is possible to traverse right on black pockets into the crack. Great climbing up this to ledge below ceiling.

  2. Up to short L facing corner to roof, then step around R and climb chossy wall above - either finish through two noses, or belay beneath them and walk off right.

FA: Russell Crow, Allan Hope & Terry Tremble, 1983

Trad 55m, 2
15 No Stranger Love

An obvious corner/crack-line that climbs quite well, although a little loose on the top half. Up bulges as for NLAS, trending left to crack and L facing corner, which is followed to ledge. Do the 2nd pitch of NLAS (about 17) to top out.

Can rope traverse left to DRB on RRCC after first pitch.

FA: Chris Leidy & Goshen Watts, 9 Mar 2014

Trad 30m
16 Green Haze

Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at the groove starting from a ledge, accessed from Old English gully. (The initial short corner was avoided because it was dirty and poorly protected, however, it was seconded.) Up the groove just left of the arête past natural pro and a bolt. Continue to the second bolt then step right onto the arête. Up a few metres to belay on a small ledge. Traverse off right into Cream Cheese and to the large ledge.

FA: Glen Donohue & Graeme Smith, 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 2
11 Cream Cheese

Can descend from 1st pitch by rope traversing 5 metres to DRB above RRCC.

Trad 76m
15 Handle With Care
Trad 60m
15 Handle With Care Direct Start

Makes the route independent of Cream Cheese. Start on the same ledge as Never Love A Stranger. Up left leaning crack into the wide crack of Handle With Care (where it traverses from Cream Cheese).

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1994

Trad 30m
23 Rings, RPs, Chalk & Cheese

Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 1
14 Old English
Trad 57m
16 Old English Variant Finish
Trad 40m
16 Concrete Scones

Up 'Old English' for 2m, step right, climb centre of face to exit top right, on arête.

FA: Ramon Francis & Catherine Francis, 1998

Trad 25m
12 Muffin Gully
Trad 54m
16 Barguentine
Trad 60m
15 Sharks-head Groove
Trad 72m
16 Sepulchrave
Trad 66m
20 Shadow Road

FA: Jim Nelson Dick Curtis

Trad 82m
20 Cracked

On the wall R of Shadow Road there is a major crack line near the arete. The crack starts above a bulging lower wall. Start down and L of the crack.

  1. 18m [20] Up and R following awkward seams and ledges to the foot of the crack. Hanging belay.

  2. 32m [19] The crack to a good ledge on the R.

  3. 22m [17] Step out R and pick your way up the grooves to the final steep crack thru’ the top bulge.

FA: Richard Curtis 1, 2 & Jim Nelson 3, 1979

Trad 72m, 3
17 Steerpike
Trad 61m
15 Sourdust
Trad 69m
Southern Cliff
17 Prestidigitator
Trad 170m
14 Power Dive

Adventure climbing. Be prepared for exposure, getting off-route and steep scrub on the descent. If this is the kind of climbing you like, be prepared for a great day out.

Trad 200m, 6
22 Wuthering Heights

Takes prow of Southern Buttress, right of Power Dive.

  1. 25m As for Power Dive.

  2. 25m(crux) Corner with over-hangs. Right round second-last over-hang, then back left and over final one to ledge.

  3. 25m Diagonally right up wall to small, right-facing corner. Up this, then right to prow at foot of white/speckled rock. Step right to exposed stance.

  4. 45m Up right side of prow. Easy ground; overhang, steep wall; then smooth face. Now up prow to ledge.

  5. 25m To top.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Simon Mentz (alt), 1997

Trad 150m, 5
14 Tumble Weed
Trad 140m
10 Prophylactic
Trad 220m
Middle Cliff
13 The Dutchess

A good third pitch but vegetad elsewhere. Climbs chimney at L hand end of face.

Trad 120m, 4
18 Vixen on Heat

Good crack on 3rd P. Starts as for Duchess leaving it on P2 to go diagonally R to the crack.

Trad 150m, 4
18 Titus Groan

Excellent outing, steep, sustained and varied. This description includes the direct variants added on the first free ascent. Start: R of Duchess.

  1. 32m (17) From below 2 overhangs 22m up Traverse L to avoid the first overhang then R just below the 2nd. Go through it and climb the corner above.

  2. 15m (13) Go a little R and up grey crack.

  3. 30m (18) Up corner for 3m. Traverse L and go up to stance. Exciting moves around overhang then crack to ceiling. Traverse R to exposed ledge.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse R to ledge which is a little lower than the one you leave.

  5. 35m (13) Up wall above. Diagonally up L to ceilings. Crawl L, up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Michael Stone & Ian ross, 1972

FFA: Chris Baxter & Peter McKeand, 1977

Trad 150m, 5
17 Titus Groan Variant

Included in above description

Trad 57m
15 Titus Groan Direct Finish

Included in above description

Trad 140m
17 Stifled Groan
Trad 140m
16 M1 Slackus Grunt
Aid 130m, 2
14 Gormenghast

A mega line with some mega choss. The big corner in the middle of the face for 5 pitches.

Trad 130m
17 Humble Pie

Takes the big R curving corner heading R out of Gormenghast. The first 10m unfortunately are very dirty and vegetated. Once Gormenghast is left the climbing cleans up and improves enormously.

  1. 48m (14) Start up the revolting choss that is Gormenghast until a line leads out and R to a tree.

  2. 50m (17) Continue in the line to the roof then on up the mega line above. Carry a fairly comprehensive rack for this sustained pitch.

  3. 44m (10) Up wall for a little, R to arête, then up R to summit ceiling which is passed on L.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter & Alan Gledhill, 1973

Trad 140m
18 Ultima Thule

Goes up middle of wall between Humble Pie and Flower Power. Start by cave right of Gormenghast.

  1. 30m Right leading line to ledge on left edge of giant cave, roofs.

  2. 40m Move off cliff after reaching it to arrive at blocky terrace under overhangs. Belay 7m left. Wall tending right until above roofs, then mantel to cave. Up from right of cave to stance.

  3. 40m Wall tending left to short, overhanging weakness in cliff-girdling band. Wall to stance.

  4. 30m Veer left up wall to small, vertical wall with horizontal cracks. Up to overlap, then left and up to terrace.

  5. 10m Through summit roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1994

Trad 150m, 5
19 Flower Power

A major line which might be a good climb. Towards the RH end of the cliff is a prominent line with a roof on the L at 23m

  1. 32m (-) Climb vegetated crack to narrow ledge below overhang. Go R on this to corner.

  2. 18m (19) L up ramp, then thin crack to ledge.

  3. 30m (15) Up line to small ledge in chimney.

  4. 42m (-) Chimney then corner to below steep wall.

  5. 22m (-) Up obvious weakness in wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Gledhill, 1971

FFA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1977

Trad 140m
16 The Fuchsia

A strong direct line offering good climbing. Start: 8m R of Flower Power.

  1. 25m (15) Up steep wall via a thin crack to a small ledge. Move R to main corner.

  2. 27m (14) Corner to crack in L wall of main corner. Up corner to ledge under chockstone.

  3. 27m (15) Up RH corner to ceiling. Traverse R to nose of buttress. Up over block and back to line. Up to bushy ledge.

  4. 30m (16) Up and onto L wall and up through overhangs. Continue up to small ledge on L. An exciting pitch.

  5. Line to top.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Trad 130m
10 A Bit o' the Other
Trad 150m
18 Blueberry Oasis

Starts as for A Bit o' the Other.

  1. 25m Up to belay in scrub where it becomes possible to traverse right.

  2. 15m Traverse right to front of buttress. Up to ledge.

  3. 15m Crack and line to stance 3m below roof.

  4. 30m Roof and crack to ledge.

  5. 40m Right and up to tree. Scramble off.

FA: Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1993

Trad 130m, 5
16 Pie in the Sky
Trad 110m
Northern Cliff

At the left end of the Northern Cliff is a large cave Start up the right arête of this cave where it meets the main face.

  1. 40m (17) Up through short crack and overhang, step left to belay, good ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Step right and up to roof move through on right, up and left to belay.

  3. 35m (15) Step right up to hand traverse under large roof at 15m up at its right end up to big ledge under large roof.

  4. 10m (17) Exit through weakness in right side/end of roof, gymnastic.

FA: Joseph O'Connell & Ramon Francis (alt), 1999

Trad 110m, 4
20 Civilization

On this climb, moss is a renewable resource; but the climbing and gear is good, with very little in the way of loose rock. Start right where the track finally meets the middle of the cliff, just R of 2 distinct cairns. Could link the first 2 pitches. Bring double ropes, plenty of long slings and cams to size 3.

  1. 15m, 19. Straight up wall (poor pro), and over tricky bulge to a ledge.

  2. 10m, 15. Trend L up the wall for 10m, to semi-hanging belay in short shallow corner.

  3. 45m, 20. Climb up R from belay, heading for weakness through the overhangs at the base of the corner system. Scoot around to the R and up exciting wall above, traversing R, then straight up. A bit more R to hanging corner and up to belay, watch for rope drag.

  4. 30m, 20. Awkward around bush leads straight up to nice line / corner. Tackle on the L, and straight up past bushes to increasingly difficult L facing corner (save a #3 cam for the top of this!).

  5. 25m 17. Up series of ledges, walls and overhangs (more or less straight up), finishing just below top of cliff (watch out for some loose blocks at the top). Escape out R.

FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 18 Feb 2016

Trad 130m, 5
12 Mouse

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

FA: Peter Treby, John Cayley & JPW, 1980

Trad 190m, 5
20 Luftwaffe

Considerable loose rock mars a strong line culminating in a spectacular position. Almost directly above the carpark is what appears to be a gully, but is the large vertical groove on the RHS of the main wall.

  1. Crux, From the base of this, climb the left wall and enter small R facing corner which leads to a bulge. Step L to a ledge.

  2. 25m, Pull over bulge and follow the line to a ledge on the R below the final roofs.

  3. 25m, the line above - exciting. The abseil tree is just to the R.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1990

Trad 75m, 3
Bernard's Boulders Jimmy's Bloc
V3 Leather Bound Pound

Sit start on nice jug feature near fire pit. Move up through crimps and pinches in nice features rock.

FA: Pommie Ian

Boulder 5m
V5 Thongs Come in Pairs

Definitely not Flip Flops. Start as for Leather Bound Pound, but instead of heading left to good holds, make huge move directly up to a good rail. From here, work left and finish as per LBP. Add a grade if you're short.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 26 Jan 2016

Boulder 5m
V3 Leather Bound Pound Variant

An afterthought, but probably a better start. Sit start low in giant sloping rail, traverse right into featured crimps and up original Leather Bound Pound finish.

FA: James Stephens

Boulder 5m
V4 World of Tights

Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds.

FA: Louis Godsell

Boulder 5m
It's boring being strong and doing Louis project, open project

Start as for Journey through the Cossmoss and move through cave using pinches, underclings and gastons to reach jugs and finish up Reclusive Genius. Should go at around V10

BoulderProject 6m
V8 It's boring being strong - Low Traverse

Starts on pockets as for Journey Through the Cossmoss then technical moves L all the way across the cave to finish at the start of LBP.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

Boulder 8m
V7 Reclusive Wanker

A much nicer start that connects into the best bits of 'Reclusive Genius'. Start far left near fire pit on jugs (pockets etc), move into lip on slopes and jugs, traverse R via some hard moves into the jugs on Reclusive Genius and up as per that.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 12 Aug 2014

Boulder 6m
V6 Reclusive Genius

Classic, with a dinky start move. Sit at back of cave in middle of overhang with small edges, press into flake, pull up to crimps and make huge moves to good holds. (Old carrot bolt is out and can't be used for aid)

FA: Louis Godsell

Boulder 5m
V1 Warm Up Traverse

On descent ramp, start on lowest point, and traverse L all the way and up Dirty!

Boulder 5m
V2 Flaked

Start 2m right of dirty! on big juggy flake and up.

Heading R not using jughy lay back is V2/3

Boulder 4m
V1 Dirty!

The warm up route. Start in large pockets, move up through pinches and jugs to a precarious mantle. Watch the tree!

FA: James Stephens

Boulder 4m
V3 Coffee and Cops

Start with left on jug in cave, move left into side pull. Compress/squeeze your way up the arete till gaining ledge.

FA: James Stephens

Boulder 4m
V7 Journey Through the Cosmoss

Start in cave, on good pocket and jug, move up into the razor sharp crimps and move to slopey nothing's to gain jugs.

FA: Louis Godsell

Boulder 4m
V2 He Wants My Hair Bernard

Start low on sloping ramp, heel hook and slap along till you reach end of ramp and clamber over slopers.

FA: James Stephens

Boulder 5m
V3 The Hair Manny!

Start as of "He Wants My Hair Bernard" and continue traversing through rising lip, till you reach good holds.

FA: Goshen Watts

Boulder 5m
V5 The History of Screaming

Start on with R hand on big side pull and L on undercling. Move up left into scoop and out left avoiding big ledge out left. Gain pockets then mantle up.

FA: Dick Lodge

Boulder 6m
V7 Senior Administrative Nurses

Mantle madness. Start on dishes and climb up through bloc cave and reach for lip. Grovel and beg your way over the top. FA involved swear words for aid.

FA: Goshen Watts

Boulder 7m
V3 Wigwams

Start just left of History of Screaming on giant undercling, move up on sharp pockets then left via slopey holds, finishing on the ramp.

FA: Jimmy, 2015

Boulder 4m
Trackside Boulders
V4 Compression Depression

3 burly moves to a interesting top out. Start with an undercling next to the giant flake and a RH on sloper, slap and squeeze your way up the arete. Great fun. (Boulder is located right on the walking track approx 200 metres into the trail)

V1 Epoxy Resin

A true one mover. (not a wonder). Start LH on crimp rail, RH on the undercling in seam. Pull up, find some holds on top and mantle over. (Boulder is up the gully behind "Compression Depression")


Showing all 79 routes.

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