Spurt Wall

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 9 months ago




The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice:

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See


Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

FA: Steve Monks

Amazingly little is known about this. Doesn't get much traffic as it requires a bit of trad. Allegedly pretty thin and nasty.

Start: Start just R of Kaa.

FA: Possibly Steve Monks, 2000

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

FA: Richard Heap, 1996

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

FA: Equipped (and Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

FA: Simon Carter

Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.

FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000

V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.

FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

FA: Donna Bridge, 1994

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

FA: Garry Phillips

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009

Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

FA: Martin Lama, 1995

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2000

FFA: Simon Young, May 2013

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

FA: garry phillips

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

FA: Simon Young, May 2013

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

FA: nic sellars

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

They must've been reading Dune to convince themselves to worm through this ocean of sand.

Start: Start at the top of 'Spurting Mildly'.

  1. 15m (24) Head up L to the honeycombroof and pull through it into cave.

  2. 15m (23) Pull out above cave into a line of chossy scoops, to another sandy cave.

  3. 10m (23) Out above the L end of the chossy cave to gain a finger crack corner which is reputedly quite good. But that might only be relative to all the choss you have to climb to get here.

FA: Dave Musgrove & Dave Jones, 1997

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Allegedly has some good moves.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

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