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Wiggly Boulder

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Access issues inherited from Grampians

Parks Victoria has issued the following advice regarding rock climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians (updated July 2022): https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A gym boulder. First conceived by Pat Klein as a gag boulder but actually quite fun and pretty tricky. Start facing outwards matched on the undercling crimp and crouched on the ledge, escape the small box and somehow turn around to escape on crimps up and left. Could be V4, could be V7...

Sit start. No crouch or stand start. Big shouldery move to the seam and pass crimps to top out.

Jason

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

Location: The Wiggly Boulder.

Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area.

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

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