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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago

description

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

  1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

  2. 20m (-) Garry Phillips bolted an extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). However this version is mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Trouser Snake.

© (secretary)

Route history

25 May 2003First ascent: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith on).

Warnings

25 Jul 2019 Warning Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.89614, 142.38545

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

26 Assigned grade
26 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Grampians Selected Climbs
26 ** ACA Route Register
28 [27 - 29] ++ grAId

ethic

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

inherited from Grampians

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 72 from 40 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Flash 3
Red point 7
Tick 13
Pink point 3
Attempt 17

Comment keywords

hard desperate dyno crux classic nice super enjoyable fun good cool rad awesome lovely great mantle bail rest undercling awkward jugs weird fist roof flake runout scary fall tricky

Activity

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