Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.
Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.
31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.
|22 Aug 1970||First ascent: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90.|
|25 Jul 2019||Warning Access: Climbing restrictions may apply|
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
|31 M2||Assigned grade|
|30M2||★ Grampians Selected Climbs|
|31/M2||★ Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|31 M2 *||★ ACA Route Register|
|8,M4||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.
The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites
Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Keep campsites clean.
Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.
Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.
Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.
Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing
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