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Warden Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 23
7

Seasonality

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Description

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Parks Victoria has issued the following advice regarding rock climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians (updated July 2022): https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro.

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

FA: Rohan Archibald

Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top.

FA: Hanh Le, 2003

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

FA: Tuan Le, 2003

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.

FA: Jack Lewis, Simon Punt & Cameron Barrett, 2003

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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