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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago
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Description

Low to medium grades, good pro. great for beginners and top ropes.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

Access for remainder of Mount Stapylton areas is affected in part by the latest updates from Parks Victoria in respect to Special Protection Areas see - https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-area-maps/

©

Approach

Head S from the Stapylton car park, near rock art site. Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag. Then veer right to grassy creek bed and follow this S for 50m. Then cross the creek bed. Keep going S for another 5 min., in open flat terrain. You will come to Doddery Rock then Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

Alt approach if creek is high - Take right fork of gravel track toward art site, cross creek near the parks vic sign with the photo of firefighters on it. Follow general direction of creek, skirt right around initial denser scrub then back to creek. Obvious outcrops up on your right aren't Mt Pleasant yet, keep going in direction of creek for another 400 or so metres and you should come across Doddery Rock with Mt P up on the hill behind.

Descent notes

The gully between Abbren and Free Hangin. The V chimney right of Leigh's Right. Easy walk down 20m. right of V chimney

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2006

1m. right of Free Hanging. Take shallow cracks right of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

About 2m. left of FH. Obvious corner line with over hang. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner, then the line up the arête.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2006

The corner starting at the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane & Jack Lewis, 2005

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2007

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello & William Swinson, 2005

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright & Peter Kello, 2005

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

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