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Titanic Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 164
  • Aka: The Titanic (Bouldering)

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 9 months ago

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Description

A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

Access for remainder of Mount Stapylton areas is affected in part by the latest updates from Parks Victoria in respect to Special Protection Areas see - https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-area-maps/

©

Approach

Walk ~2k from Stapylton Campground on Mt Stapylton walking track. Alternatively drive from campground to Pohlners Rd and turn right. Drive 400m to pullout where track crosses the road (signed). Follow the track away from the campground taking the left fork at 100m. The boulders are on the right about 500m further on.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

History

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab.

Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Sit Start on the jug almost in between the two boulders, climb to the top on good holds.

Sit start in the corner to the right of 'Not Drowning, Waving' and climb up the crack.

SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out .

Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face.

SS with letterbox jug past small edge in roof to the lip. Mantle.

SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out.

Sit start at bucket low on wall right of arete. Climb up and left on jugs/slot to mantle.

Sit start and climb the right diagonal up to the corner and extremely high top out

Sit start and mantle straight up.

FA: Freya Beaton

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