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Watchmen Wall

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago
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Description

A 20m high wall 5mins from the car. Most routes are on the main face but there are a few worthwhile ones to the left (facing the cliff from the road) too.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

Located on a compact orange wall of very good quality, about 300m to the left (as you look at it from the Mt Zero-Halls Gap Road) of 'Cave Cliff'. This has it's own access about 50m up from the low point in the road (orange tape). Clearly visible from the road (lowest, best looking one with Guano on it's left side). Walking time 5mins.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

This easier LHV of Loiterer finally provides the much needed warm-up at the cliff. Start directly as for We Like to Watch, or climb in easily right of the first FH. Follow WLTW to its big half way ledge. As for Loiterer, climb diagonally left past 2 FHs to the guano stained ledge. Clip the FH up right with a sling or long quickdraw. Loiter as long as you like, before traversing easily left to the black groove using big underclings. Clip the FH and up to the anchors.

FA: Michael O’Reilly, Ross Timms & Steve Chapman, Nov 2016

A short, hard crux at the end of easier climbing – sure to be popular with boulderers! Start as for We Like to Watch. Follow WLTW to its big half way ledge. Climb diagonally left past 2 FHs to the guano stained ledge (Clip the FH up right). Loiter as long as you like, before powering up to the anchors.

FA: Michael O’Reilly, Ross Timms & Steve Chapman, Oct 2016

Directly up the guts of the slightly concave wall (7 FHs) with very steep final moves to the rap anchors.

Start: Start 6m left of the start of 'Rorschach', directly below the first FH.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Steve Chapman & Michael O'Reilly, 2010

A good link-up route that climbs well. Quite technical and sustained after the big ledge on 'We Like to Watch'. Little new climbing! Head up WLTW below the crux, at the horizontal, head right.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, 2011

Excellent steep face climbing on great rock. Well bolted. The crux may still be a little sharp so take care.

Start: as for 'Doctor Manhattan' at the carrot bolts.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs & Cate Webb, 2008

Fab face climbing up a diagonal line past 4 fixed hangers. Tricky traverse into corner, up then right out on steep jugs to rap anchor.

*For an alternative (more direct) start head up "Swatch Out"

Start: Starts as for 'Rorschach' at the carrot bolts, and heads right at the ledge.

FA: Josef Goding, 2009

Starts 3m right of 'Doctor Manhattan'

FA: Steve Chapman & Michael O'Reilly, 2010

Start up Swatch out, then where it meets Dr M. follow it to anchors. Makes the line straighter.

FFA: Adam Demmert & NEil Monteith, 18 Aug 2013

Novel climbing! Starts up R on the ledge, either stick clip, or place trad in the crack to start. Then exciting traverse all the way L until you can climb up (Trad) to join the big flake/corner on Doctor Manhattan.

FA: Goshen Watts, Nov 2021

As for jailhouse, but go up via 2nd FH. Take a few small to med cams for the start / finish. Loweroff.

Start in the corner on the right, head up into the crack, move right then up the corner more easily. Up past little ledge and move left on slab to finish at rap station on ledge.

FA: Mike O'Brien, Christie Galitsky & Josef Goding, 2009

Up face

Start: start just left of "In a Galitsky Far Far Away"

FA: Michael O'Brien & Josef Goding, 2009

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