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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago
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Description

A lovely compact orange wall about 100m wide, average height 15m with lots of bolts. Great position high up above the wimmera. Generally stays dry in the rain, and has some excellent mid grade routes. Most routes are climbable in steady light rain, although if it gets really bucketing down it's probably not worth heading up.

This Cliff is definitely helmet territory. Be careful of dropping loose rock on your belayer off the routes

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

About 5mins above Cave Cliff's main wall (skirt round left on a well marked track up a gully and over the ridge).

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep fun spot. Starts at the far left end of the cliff in a scooped cave. Steeply up right, then back left traversing past the bolts on good holds to ledge/rest. Blast straight up to rap station passing one more bolt.

FA: Josef Goding, 2007

Consistently steep, fun climbing. 2m right of The Penguin. Steeply up right past bolts to better holds on big flake. directly up to anchors.

FA: Naomi Gibbs & Josef Goding, 2007

More good fun gymnastic climbing. Starts as for "Holy Batmania" Straight up where Holy Batmania goes right. Long move to good hold on lip of small roof, pull through, up a move or two then traverse right to belay station.

FA: Steve Toal, 2011

More good fun steep climbing on good holds. Starts 4m left of 'Poison Ivy' Steeply up past 4 U bolts to join Poison Ivy's rap station.

FA: Josef Goding, 2007

Very steep well-protected fun 4m right of 'Holy Batmania'. Straight up the headwall passing a bolt, then diagionally up and left on small ledge (very steep) to rap chains. 6 bolts plus chains.

FA: Naomi Gibbs & Josef Goding, 2007

A coupla tricky moves. Sorta average but probably worth investing a bolt in, for anyone so inclined. Start 3m L of CG then join it at half height.

Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007

Steep fun sport, the hard bit is a bit short though. 1m left of 'The Joker' below 7 rings. Up the wall with ease to steep thin moves which give way to "Thank God" jugs a few meters before the top. 7 ring bolts & Double bolt / ring rappel station.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007

Steep fun

Start: Starts roughly in the middle of the cliff just right of 'The Riddler'.

Take some tiny wires and a few cams (including some large ones). Up wall tending right past horizontal breaks to rest around 4m from top. Find some good gear and head on up on steep committing jugs. Tricky mantle to natural belay

FA: Naomi Gibbs & Josef Goding, 2007

Not positively located. Possibly 'The Joker' is a repeat of this route. This is not a major attraction. Start at the white outcrop of rock at the base of the cliff half way along. Up the weakness veering right near top to easier ground.

FA: John Pawson & Wayne Maher, 1989

Steep sport that might still have a loose hold or two after a lot of cleaning.

Start: The furthest line on the right hand side of the cliff near a black streak (about 15m right of "The Joker"). about 6 or so FH lead up, traversing left at about half height, then steeply up on good jugs to chain rappel. There have been some comments that the chains are not quite long enough and need extending so watch your rope and abseil, don't get lowered off.

FA: Steve Bright, 2007

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