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West Flank

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Description

A shady wall of Blue Mtns like wall routes with one the easiest approaches in the Grampians. Recent retrobolting and new climbs have delivered a good selection of bolted single pitch routes.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by skirting right around the base of the Flat Rock slabs at the Flat Rock carpark.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steeeep and fun. Starts off the ledge above the walk in track at the far L end. Either climb Radioactive Man and walk across the ledge OR EASIEST climber abseils in to ledge from above (DRB anchor) and the belayer gets to stay on the ground.

Bouldery climbing leads to a juggy but very steep traverse R to some fun final thuggy moves up the last little head wall. Back jump to clean.

Aka Dope Man MkII ha ha. One for the boulders and the access pitch for DNI Start. Starts off the boulders on the far L side of the large cave. Steep boulder start and up the slabby face.

A wild and very steep ride up some pretty big features. Start as for City of Peace. Follow COP for 2 RBS then head L past some thin moves to a big break. Go further L past some slopes and a big move up to the L side of the large shield of rock. Follow the R side of this up past some big L heel moves to the top of the shield and ledge. Traverse the lip of this ledge and drop down a move to rejoin the last 10m of COP.

FA: Matt Brooks, 13 Jun 2022

The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave.

FA: Matt Brooks

Set: Matt Brooks, 11 Dec 2013

The original route here - and used to be protected by only one bolt! Start at the first `weakness' right of the overhanging section. Hard move over overhang to shallow left facing corner, follow this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above - some wires or slings help with extreme run-out to anchor.

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

From just after the crux on L'Essence head right and finish as for Mutually Assured Destruction (MAD slab). Finish at L'Essence's anchor.

FFA: Byam Keil, 23 Sep

Starts just left of Uranium-234, up the blank face past FH’s. A big runout to either the L’Essence or Uranium-234 anchor.

Set: Chook Betts

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 24 Sep

Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 27 Aug 2016

For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 28 Aug 2016

4m right. Step off block to start and up short yellow streak (3 FHs) then take the left trending line of bolts up easy jugs to rap chain.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, Glen norell, Ben Alslop & Matt Brooks, 22 Dec 2013

First 3 bolts of Nuclear Wasteland then take the right line of bolts. This was once a trad route but was retro bolted with permission from the FA.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

Start immediately R of Yellow Cake at the base of short flake and rooflet. Boulder around the R side of this and up the short crack before stepping L onto bulge. Straight up the face to the roof clipping from big undercling if roof. Over roof and up juggy flake to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 23 Dec 2015

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

FA: Shepherd & Fearnley, 1986

Start approx 4 metres right of Melting Moments. Use longer QD at fourth bolt to prevent rope drag over bulge. Up slab to base of orange wall past some excellent small and large pockets, step out right (crux) to flake, then back left, over bulge on massive jugs then direct line to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams & amanda holloway, 20 Feb 2016

A direct finish to Unraveling Fukushima. Follow UF past 4RBs and then straight up the wall to the anchors just L of the top of CIC.

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 26 Mar 2016

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of the landmark flake of Cooking in Chernobyl. After mantling past the second bolt, move left up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Tradtastic. The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall about 25m right of Melting Moments.

FA: Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

Fantastic pumpy climbing on some great rock and holds. Start off the ledge up and to the R of CIC at an RB. Follow the hangers up and L to join UF for the last 2 RBs and its fantastic finish.

FA: Matt Brooks, 16 May 2016

Start at the first bolt of 'Without Warning', but head up and slightly right to finish at anchor of 'Nuclear Novice'. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

FFA: Matt Brooks, Oct 2017

The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Set: Matt Brooks

FFA: Buck Rogers & Matt Brooks, 14 May 2016

Some nice moves. Start as for Nuclear Novice climb the first few moves of this before moving R and up the face past RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Matt Brooks, Feb 2017

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 28 Mar 2016

Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. Rising right traverse across face to corner then burrow under chockstone to chains.

FFA: Matt Brooks, Oct 2017

It's not a Blues Breaker or a Blues Maker. This is a linkup of Glow in the Dark and Moab. It is best for someone to 2nd it to clean it. Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. Rising right traverse across face to corner. Up 2m then step right across arete onto face then finish on ledge with chain.

Set: anthony

FFA: anthony & Joe Goding

FA: anthony

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Keith Lockwood, 1972

Not quite Nuclear. Fun climbing that starts up first 2 U bolts of Alpha Decay then steps left on RBs to anchors just R of the arête at the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, Feb 2017

starts 3m right of arête.Great climbing straight up wall on u bolts using nice side pulls and pockets .Consistent techie climbing at the grade.

Set: anthony pattison

FFA: anthony pattison

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 19 Mar 2017

From middle of slab (L of line of FH's), weave your way up and L to via some tricky slab moves. A tad run-out, but there is more gear than appearances suggest.

FA: Goshen Watts & Aden, 1 Jan 2017

Scramble up ramp left of Blues Breaker. Juggy face to fun moves on pockets and slab above. Fixed hangers.

Set: Anthony Pattison

FFA: Anthony Pattison & Mike Rockell

FA: Anthony pattison, 6 May 2017

Scramble up ramp to left of Blues breaker. Nasty Nukes starts 2m right of Fickle Fission. Start the climb heading towards obvious chicken head. Then climb well featured face to fun large pockets and slab above 5 U-bolts +lower offs. A good warmup for Fickle Fission.

FFA: anthony & Mike Rockell

FA: anthony, 5 Aug 2018

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Lockwood & Thomson, 1972

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.

Set: anthony pattison

FFA: anthony pattison, simon gazeley & amanda holloway, 21 May 2016

FA: anthony pattison, 21 May 2016

Traverse the diagonal crack/ledge. Start below Nuclear Error, follow crack up and right, step on to the small roof and continue along ledge to top. Bring lots of slings. Rapel off Alpha Decay.

FA: SSherwood & Wojtek Kaftanski, 3 Jan 2018

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 1992

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Feb 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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