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Lower Centurion Walls

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago

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Description

This sector is home to most of the routes at Centurion Walls.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

NRNR is possibly AA because it has the same length & grade and is listed after LL in the Chockstone guide.

Start 25m R of the LH end of the cliff just to the right of the first large orange overhang. Start at the LH end of the scoop. Up diagonally Right through the scoop and across black wall to RH prow. Up.

FFA: Peter Watling & Mike Mulcairn, 1995

Start 10m left of HCP. Straight up crack and then follow through steepening above. Hard bouldery start and disconcerting finish.

FFA: Campbell Mercer & Mike Mulcairn, 1995

About 40m left of fixed rope in scoop. Up scoop to ledge. Traverse L 3m up crack to roof. Out right and up wall.

FFA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Watling, 1995

A Hyper-classic Choss Pile? Up black wall left of MM and then V groove above

FFA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1995

The home of the 'regular' pocket and an excellent hard climb. Wild overhung steepness through cave on left end of main crag with a dubious enhanced start. Bouldery from start to finish with some very funky moves.

FA: Neil Monteith

Novel undercling roof lip traverse with some less than perfect rock (name translates into something like 'some loose rock'). Climbs the lip of the cave right of 'Winged Corpse'. Scramble up ramp to chossy ledge, clip FH then monkey out left and up headwall. Crux is getting from the roof into the small corner via shoulder busting mantle pull. 5 FH's and some optional medium wires for juggy finish. Rap off chain.

FA: Thomas Wimmer (Germany) & Neil Monteith, 1999

The obvious right facing hollow flake crack and pumpy wall right of 'Winged Corpse'. Originally led with only a single bolt and dodgy trad - now it's a retrobolted popular sport warm-up featuring six bolts (of differing styles). Boulder start directly up scoops past FH to chossy ledge, then up flake and wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith & Thomas Wimmer, 1999

Closed project, the line left of Centrifugal Force. Simon Young

Set: Simon Young, 1 Apr 2013

This beautiful black streaked wall is rarely dry after rain! Start as for 'Left Hand Black' to second bolt then bouldery traverse left to jugs. Continue up wall and small roof past a further three bolts. Last ring bolt was placed after first ascent when second ascent took monster whipper.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 1998

The first route bolted at 'Centurion Walls' by the young team of Nick & Neil. A popular sustained sport route with a committing crux. Named after the black pattern on the rock. The route climbs the steep left edge of a cave, continues directly up orange face and then over a roof to finish on excellent pockets.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 1998

Right hand black? Sustained steep climbing through a big roof. Starts as for 'Left Hand Black' until fourth bolt (can potentially clip the fifth bolt with sling), then traverse right (FH) to under large roof, over this and up past three more bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

Direct start through scoops of afterworld past ringbolts. Joins afterworld for last few bolts.

Rarely repeated, which is a shame as this excellent steep wall and roof has some good moves. Ramble up the uninspiring start of 'Shades of Black' to the bird shit stained ledge at about 15m height. Hand traverse left here and head up pocketed wall past a FH to under big roof. 'Monkey' across this past another FH to finish. Bring medium wires, cams and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tom Briggs (UK), 1998

A clearer shade of choss? The first route done on the cliff. 'Steep' bold climbing on outrageous holds and quite a bit of bird shit. Starts at very small section of "brain" like rock at right hand end of small white cave about 30m right of 'Left Hand Black'. Straight up to left hand side of buttress. Up flake on left then up and right to top of buttress. Straight up wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Watling, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn, 1995

A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of 'Shades of Black'. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1995

Looks appalling. Even ten bolts wouldn't make this safe. Up the centre of the black streak 10m left of 'Killer Wolf' through two overhangs and finishing up right of the small bush at two thirds height.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn, 1999

Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords (7m L of KK) at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Alan Hope, 1995

The scene of several tantrums by strong climbers, this one is famous for a forearm pump from hell on the traverse. One of the better easier routes at the crag although it seeps heavily after rain and the finish can be sandy. 'The scoop' and roof flake about 10m right of 'Lexicon'. Into small cave (FH), roof flake (medium cams) to small stance and FH. Head left on jugs past fixed chain on RB then straight up to double rings. The direct finish straight up from second FH is a good looking open project.

FA: Nick McKinnon Neil Monteith, 2000

Left hand variant to the Compressor route. Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RB’s) with some nice big pockets to DRB loweroff

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

FA: Nick McKinnon, 2002

Wandery climbing on great rock. As for 'Compressor Route' to sixth bolt, then shuffle right along horizontal for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then hard right (ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs and pumpy conclusion past last ring to double ring lower off. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. Should be rebolted and straightened out.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001

The parrot in the horizontal is most certainly dead – or perhaps it's just resting? Starts 5m right of The 'Compressor Route'. Steep cave climbing across a major feature on sometimes bizarre conglomerate rock.

As of Nov 2019 there is a bees nest on this route. April 2021... they’re still there!

FA: Monteith, Michael Lawrence, Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Direct start to Pining For The Fiords on RB through scoops. Possibly project.

Old guard route with powerful climbing through steep territory. Start about 10m left of 'Psychotic' Episode. Climb orange and black striped rock to first overhang. Traverse 3m L then up steeply until a traverse line leads back R between more overhangs. Committing moves over the next overhang lead to a dark red patch of rock and a hanging corner/weakness. Up this and finish out right of the summit roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1996

Crack traverse. Start up Kublai Khan for four metres then begin the never ending overhu ng hand-traverse right on superb stone to end at Psychotic Episode's ring bolts. Bring every cam you own up to size 4, and lots of slings. Add a few grades if you pump out easily!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2000

Up 'Psychotic' Episode to second bolt. Traverse left along

horizontal, bust through roof (crux - 28?) and onwards up leftt to top. Needs more bolts at finish.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2004

Super classic overhung orange wall - mostly bolts but a couple of cams are needed in the middle.

FA: Nick McKinnon, 2000

Sandbag one move wonder. Starts the same as 'Progressive Happy House'. Move up on big horizontals for 7m . Traverse left for 3m and up to another good slot. Dyno crux then up wall to belay tree. Rap off tree to descend.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 1999

Named after the Malvern Road, Prahran share house that lasted 10 years. The best of the easy trad routes of the cliff. Head diagonally

right on big horizontal breaks to vertical reachy transition. Up easily to top and tree belay. Bring lots of cams. Rap off tree above Push It Upstairs.

FA: Neil Monteith

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