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Sickle Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

6

Seasonality

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Access issues

South of Mt Difficult - and outside the CV14 SPA

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Routes

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Grade Route

50m up the gully from Catch The Wind, below two left-leaning cracks, and just right of an undercut section.

  1. 20m Head up right to a flake and then climb this until it’s possible to move left and up to a cramped belay under an off-width in the roof.

  2. 20m Traverse right to a big ledge.

  3. 15m Climb the weakness above the left end of the ledge.

  4. 20m Head up the crack.

FA: James McIntosh & Mick Jennings, 1998

If you skip the top pitch and scramble off left this turns into a really good grade 14. There is a large corner system on the left side of the main slab. This climb is to the left of this on an arete and starts on a terrace a little way up the descent gully.

  1. 35m Head up the right edge of the wall and step around the arete to belay under the roof.

  2. 35m Climb up awkwardly through the weakness in the roof and then move right to belay at a corner.

  3. 15m Climb the crack to a ramp.

  4. 15m (Crux) Take the steep crack and then move right to the arete and continue up.

FA: James McIntosh & Mike Wust (varied leads), 1994

10m right of a large flake leaning against the slabby face.

  1. 45m Climb up an easy slab until it’s possible to belay under the first overlap.

  2. 20m Climb up the break above and then go left through the second overlap. Head left and up to below a small overhang for the belay.

  3. 25m Go back down a little then left to the end of a long ledge to belay.

  4. 30m Head leftward to reach the other end of the ledge.

  5. 35m Go left to the bottom of a large chimney and climb it to finish below a very large chockstone.

FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994

The original description was written up six years after the climb was done, so is a tad vague. Head up diagonally left along a narrow ramp at the lip of the retaining wall of a sickle feature. Roughly follow the sickle feature up the walls (which are hard to protect) until it’s possible to move up right on a large vegetated ramp.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1982

150m right of the descent gully is a major line splitting a prow.

  1. 32m Follow a crack up to below an overhang.

  2. 35m Climb the steep crack and the short difficult corner to a ledge.

  3. 46m Head around right, go to the large corner, and then climb this to the top.

FA: ross taylor & Rob Taylor, 1994

Approximately 50m right of First Blood, left of a prominent arete, is a major corner high up on the cliff.

  1. 25m Start below the arete and head up the slab. Climb through the overlap at the flake and then move left to belay under the corner.

  2. 25m Go up and along the major flake.

  3. 25m Head up the cracks immediately left of the arete.

  4. 25m Continue up the cracks.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie McIntosh, 1998

This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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