Photos
Help

Mt Difficult Cliff

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

Access issues

This cliff sits within the CV14 SPA, although it is on the to be reviewed list.

Approach

The Troopers Creek campsite is permanently closed but the climbing access still starts from this site.

You can park at a turnout opposite the old Troopers Creek Campsite. Cars parked at the Troopers Creek site have had their windows smashed, contents stolen, and tyres slashed (Nov 2018). Perhaps this could be avoided if you ensure your car looks like it has nothing worth stealing inside?

The start of the walking track isn't obvious, but it can be found towards the top right area of the cleared area that was used for camping. Once you reach the first wooden steps it's easy to follow, so long as you anticipate a lot of traversing (rather than heading straight up to the cliff): if you find yourself bush bashing then you've gone too direct! The track goes past the 'Wind Cave' boulder then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out), lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground.

FA: Joe Goding & Graham Holden, 2001

Hard to see why anyone would bother. Start at rap anchor of 'He who walks through Shallow Water'. Move left about 6-8 metres along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far LH end. up this with difficulty to very easy ground above.

Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water'

FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001

Good fun steep wall climbing.

Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track.

FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001

Remarkably overhung off-width chimney a few metres left of 'Birthday Suit'

FA: Charles Creese & Peter Watling, 1987

The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night'.

10m left of HDN, not the world's best route but a filler at the end of the day. A few bolts, rps and big cam.

Distinctive crack aided through bulges.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970

Initialled flaring crack starting from terrace above the track. Rap off.

Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start', marked with a square 2m up. use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham (in winiter), 1983

Good easy fun. At the end of orange overhanging wall, 6m above track and 9m right of Entree DS. Up wall then right into corner.

Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'.

A definite V corner 30m left of Ke Bab. Great, sustained first pitch followed by experiential squeeze through big roof over chockstones. With any luck, there'll be something to rap off or meander to the top.

Up wall on P1 to gorgeous, featured arete on P2. The second pitch has historically been given grade 22: this was an error and it turns out that it's actually about grade 17.

  1. 15m (22) Clip the rusty carrot then move gingerly up flake that offers little protection. Pass another two carrots before reaching double carrot belay.

  2. 35m (17) A rightwards rising traverse gains the heavily featured blunt arete. Keep pulling on flakes past a bolt before reaching a terrace with a bunch of tat at its left end (~45m rap to ground).

  3. 25m (-)

Because P2 is easier (and more memorable) than P1, if you'd rather do two pitches at a more similar grade and style, a good option is to start up Procrastination for a few metres before doing a rising traverse to the left, at about grade 19. This will land you at the double carrot belay at the end of P1.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1990

Obvious crack 5m left of Ke Bab.

Varied and sustained climbing. A 5-inch cam is useful at the technical crux even though it's not an off-width move and multiple 4-inch cams are handy on the wide flake. 40 metre abseil from top of flake. Best to lower the ropes inside the crack and start the abseil down the crack - throwing the ropes over the outside of the flake risks them catching on the opposite buttress and lands you in the middle of the unpleasant vegetation at the foot of the gully

Nice looking wall with three bolts and sling anchor (which will inevitably need replacing). The start of this route has shed many holds, and the first two carrots have been overdriven such that getting a bolt plate onto them is a real crux.

Deep, dark and dank cleft to get lost in 40m left of Kabana

Easy slab left of mossy corner (Kabana direct) then back into line.

Mossy corner 16m left of B.

Deep flaring crack 15m left of QB

Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn.

FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Loose and poorly protected route up the proud arête right of Queen Bee. Pitches of 25m, 25m 15m. Start up Guillotine then move left onto the face. Back right at around 25 to 30m to belay in corner. Horizontally left onto arête proper, straight up to ledge. Bail here to avoid further complications. Traverse down and across to major ledge, rap from tree on Queen Bee.

FA: Joe Goding & Steve Hamilton (alt), 2002

Pleasant climbing on sound rock. Starts at faint initials BV, about 8m right of Beeline and 7m left of Queen Bee.

  1. Climb the crack past the tree to where the crack runs out. Traverse diagonally right to a good ledge.

  2. (crux) Traverse left to the obvious flake. Delightful climbing up the flake brings jugs to hand which lead to a big bushy ledge. Move left to Beeline.

FA: Chris Baxter & Alan Gledhill, 1970

1 10 46m
2 17 20m
3 12 15m

An excellent climb that gets progressively harder. It starts at the overhung flake 6m left of SB.

  1. 46m (10) Up rounded features to join the crack system, to belay on ledge above a tricky move

  2. 20m (17) Move up, then right into finger crack, before gaining a ledge. Traverse left on this - with poor feet - to the flake. Belay at the left end of the ledge. This pitch has long been given the grade 15. It deserves an upgrade seeing that it is far more pumpy than any of the 18s at this crag!

  3. 15m (12) As for 'Beeline'

FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1970

Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine'. Initialled.

Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff.

FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill, 1970

Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch. Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 15m (20) Flake and slab past a carrot bolt (located a few metres left of arete) to ledge and carrot bolt.

  2. 42m (17) Up left from belay for about 8 metres, past carrot bolt at 4 metres then traverse right to below the prominent left-hand crack. Up crack and traverse right to belay behind big detached flake.

  3. 28m (21) Traverse back left to base of left-hand crack. Up this (peg runner needed but not in place. FA hand-placed and tied-off a long-dong nut tool), passing the bulge above on its left side. Up face next to arete to roof, step left around arete to belay on the ledge above the corner.

  4. 12m Finish as for 'Nostalgia'

FA: Nicky Sunderland (1, 4), Kevin Lindorff (2, 3), Mike Wust & David Jurke, 1990

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

First pitch is excellent and many parties abseil from that point. The route 'Up, Up and Away' was essentially a repeat of this climb. Start: 10 metres above ground-level where the track first meets the cliff.

  1. 35m (18) Up past big blocks and flakes then thin seam. When the seam finishes, continue straight up, to the bolted belay just next to gumtree. This pitch is technically only 17 but the protection can be sparse.

  2. 27m (17) Shift the belay a few metres left behind the big flake to below the right-hand of two crack-lines. Climb this crack then make a leftward rising traverse past the arete. Step around this arete to base of a big chimney.

  3. 12m (17) Up the right-hand line in the chimney-gully and up a short, overhanging jam crack

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Andrew Moore, 1990

Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1995

Every pitch is good, with the third being particularly intimidating. Takes the slab and flakes 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff, 5 metres left of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (20) The grey slab past 2 bolts to base of shallow, right-facing corner at 12 metres. Up to horizontal traverse line coming in from right and move right 3-4 metres to belay.

  2. 30m (22) Move back left to the line and go up until the corner ends at a small roof. Swing around left onto the slab and DBB.

  3. 20m (22) Step up right, then straight up steeply until 5-6 metres above belay and the first runners in horizontal. Tend right and up to gain the rising left line. Follow this line around the bulge to the ramp and easier ground above.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993

Start as for 'Rollmop' in 'Abseil Gully' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Share this

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mt Difficult Cliff.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文