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Courtyard Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 675
  • Aka: Tsunami Boulder

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago
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Description

Two obvious boulders leaning on each other on about 5-8mins walk up the Venus Baths Track.

The boulders are easily seen from either side of the track, but are actually on the side leaving the caravan park.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers.

"Please do not add any routes (old or new) to this database for the time being."

Approach

About 5 mins of easy, well-maintained track.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Start on high slopey rail and trend right via slopey holds and eventually jugs

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Sit start with chalked-up LH pocket and RH gaston.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

FA: Jayden Andrea, 1 Nov 2015

Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out.

Sit start as with other problem on boulder then head left, Dyno to good crimp, delicate top out.

Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Dec 2017

On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face.

FA: Olliver Miller

Located on the backside of the larger boulder, near where the two boulders touch. Sit start the left crack.

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