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Rain Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago

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Description

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Buandik Area

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld & Neil Barr, 1983

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg & Sally Child, 1992

May be substantially a repeat of Sally's Route start left of Blackberry Nip at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other. Up right-hand corner for 5 metres then up wall, veering right to nose. Up to join Blackberry Nip for final 3 metres.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton & Edwin Young, 2000

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake & Leigh Howes, 1983

Take double ropes. Start as for Blackberry Nip. Up for 4 metres then step right (FH) and up to diagonal break. Left for 3 metres then, at overlap, pull through on big holds. Up to rest, go right for 2 metres then up clean yellow streak past 2 more FH's.

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

Great line up the guts of the cliff.

  1. 25m (21) Up face directly below distinctive skull formation (2 FH) then big flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

  2. 25m (22) Up to FH. back down a move and traverse the lip of the overlap past FH to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young & Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

Start 5 metres right of black streak.

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon & Gordon, 1997

Climbs right of here are approached from The Gallery, the first two by a very exposed access on ledges. It is a good idea to rope up for this access.

The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;

  1. 25m Traverse down left along break to hanging belay where line sweeps upward.

  2. 25m (24 M1) Left along the line (2 wires for aid near start)

  3. 30m Up line to top.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Airy and sustained climbing in magnificent situations. Start by following ledges under steep walls around left from The Gallery.

1) 25m (24) Hand traverse around hanging arete. Up cracks, BR, Left into face from ledge to exposed hanging belay from bolts.

2) 35m (22) Diagonal cracks to lip of wall below. Up scary line.

FA: Glen Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1992

Steeply up left of arete left of Plain English. Go right around arete at 6 metres and up.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Lisa Imer, 1992

Start as for Plain English then climb narrow wall on left.

FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Start at the chimney just left (south) of The Gallery chasm. Up the chimney on doubtful rock to the left arete.

FA: Stephen Lake & Leigh Howes, 1983

Desperate start. Step right, BR, from block in Plain English. Up wall, 2 bolts.

FA: Glen Tempest & Matt Darby, 1992

The wall right of Plain English with a vertical white dyke. Up right side of wall, then ridge to juggy line to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1990

Probably a repeat of the top section of Drain Pipe. Start out of The Gallery, just left of Mr Meat Step onto face from cave. Up crack for 3 metres, then veer left up weakness.

FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer & Peter Woodfield, 1991

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