Sport climbing on great rock
Sport climbing on great rock
A gently overhung 15m face of fantastic stone with majestic views. There are currently 3 sport routes on the west facing wall, which gets the sun around 1pm. Routes are described right to left, and all start at the same bolt.
ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq
Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.
Clearly visible from the road, slightly uphill from Queensland Cliff. Easiest access is to approach as for Queensland cliff. Wander under the huge smooth overhangs (and two hard trad routes) and head up the gully for about 50 metres to approach Rednecks from its right hand end. 25 minutes. It’s possible to head straight up from pretty much any part of the Crag X track but be prepared for a spot of bush bashing, and you will also need to skirt around the large boulder field at its base to get to the existing sport routes.
Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.
The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites
Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Keep campsites clean.
Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.
Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.
Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.
Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing
This crag does not have any routes listed!We really need somebody who knows this crag to tell us what sectors, cliffs, boulders and routes that are in this crag- just the names and grades at this stage. You may use our web interface or throw it into an excel spreadsheet and send it to us. You will be attributed and earn lots of Karma points. If you are a publisher then we can use your copyright.Please contact us if you want to know more or just get on with it.
Check out what is happening in Redneck Paradise.