A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDAll Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -37.228901, 142.269197
After the main cliff breaks down, it redeems itself further on, with four excellent routes on fantastic rock. The hermits cave is at it's far end.
ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq
Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.
Scramble down and around for about 50m from the main cliff.
Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.
The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites
Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Keep campsites clean.
Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.
Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.
Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.
Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing
★ Window in the Sky
Start in the big cave below the window and climb the arete to the ledge. Step gently over the window then blast up the black groove to the anchors. Remarkably steep for the grade.
FA: Bill Begg, Brett Dodemaide & Alex Trnovsky, Apr 2016
★★ afflicted by the curse
Start underneath the right end of the ledge (to the right of the main sandy cave). Climb up past a bolt, potter carefully left along the ledge, and then blast straight up past 4 more bolts to the anchors, enjoying the jugs while they last…
FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill begg, 2015
★★ The big honey hunt
Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors.
FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2015
★★ Deer hunting for Jesus
Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge.
FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, 2015
★ Guys lesbo lickfest fantasy line
Tough start (especially for shorties) leads to sustained climbing past 3 bolts to ledge and shared anchors.
FA: Guy Abell & Alex Trnovsky, 2015
|16||★||Window in the Sky||5|
|18||★★||Deer hunting for Jesus||3|
|20||★||Guys lesbo lickfest fantasy line||3|
|21||★★||afflicted by the curse||5|
|23||★★||The big honey hunt||5|