Routes in Red Rock Area

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 273 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Band Of Gypsies
13 Over The Top

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

FA: . Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 25m
13 Heavy Milk, Light Beer

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 17m
17 The Upside of Anger

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Mixed trad 18m, 1
10 Bulldozer In The Background

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 20m
27 Grand Oral Disseminator

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 1
21 Private Parts

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 26m
21 Squeezed Out

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

FA: Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Mixed trad 13m, 2
22 Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Mixed trad 18m, 2
21 Bury Me Standing

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nick Kiraly, 2005

Trad 18m
20 Mad Cow

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Mixed trad 22m, 3
20 Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2006

Trad 25m
19 Crazy Like a Fox

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 22m
20 Steve Holloway Route

FA: Steve Holloway, 2005

Trad 15m
22 Nick Route

FA: 2005

Trad 15m
20 Slow Burn

FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher

Trad 20m
24 Arrested

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Trad 15m
19 Flashing Eyes

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

  1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

  2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

FA: Micahel Hampton & Sharyn George (alt), 2005

Trad 36m, 2
20 Steal My Fingers

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Trad 18m
17 Gypsy Swing

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 18m
19 Band Of Thieves

Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003

Trad 23m
20 Over Committed

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005

Mixed trad 20m, 2
21 Queen Of Der

A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2006

Mixed trad 26m, 2
21 Eloquence Of Speech

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005

Trad 20m
11 Rag And Bone

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 40m
14 Reading Palms

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway & Peter Mills, 2005

Trad 18m
20 Dutch Courage

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

FA: Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter, 2005

Trad 18m
15 Blogger

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 20m
20 Transylvanian Trad

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Trad 20m
16 Bohemian Ridge

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 45m
12 Nice Knobs

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 40m
18 Read Rover

Enjoyable face with good gear.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 25m
12 In A Dark Wood Wandering

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 18m
13 A Fortune Teller

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 25m
16 Dead Horses

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Mixed trad 27m, 1
20 Johnny Depp

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Trad 23m
18 Errol Flynn

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Mixed trad 20m, 1
20 Steptoe And Scum

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Trad 18m
Red Rock Pinnacles Pellant Pinnacle
16 A Kilogram Of Pellant Please

Flake crack at left end of wall.

FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991

Trad 12m
14 Big Red Horny Thing

Blunt orange arete with large horn right of Kilogram etc. Two useless FHs which are positioned in impossible to clip situations. Ignore them and place good trad instead. Rap off bollard or continue up another 20m of rubbish juggy rock. The start is much harder than grade 14.

FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991

Trad 10m
16 Bottom Juice

Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall.

FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991

Trad 7m
16 Kauk Is My Hero

Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1991

Trad 25m
14 An Ewok Adventure

Orange streak on right, then to Kauk Is My Hero's rap station.

FA: Ross Meffin & Rick Jeukin (solo), 1991

Trad 25m
23 Sharon's Face (Project)

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004

Trad 8m
Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle
16 No Habla Espanol

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002

Trad 14m
26 Relationship ≠ Ownership

Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature.

Set by Kent Paterson

Sport 15m, 5
23 Je Ne Parle Pas Français

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 14m
23 Non Parlo Italiano

Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 10m
19 Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches

Short steep crack. On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizontal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 10m
20 Human Centipede

Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle.

FA: Neil Monteith & Vanessa Wills

Trad 12m
Red Rock Pinnacles Vertebrae Pinnacle
23 Get What You Paid For

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004

Sport 15m
19 Vertabrae

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 15m
24 The Backbone

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Sport 12m
23 Sweat of Effort

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

Trad 20m
Red Rock Pinnacles Kentucky Block
20 Kentucky Fried Clippin'

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2005

Sport 8m, 3
23 Monkey Punch

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Set by Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

FA: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

Sport 14m, 4
24 Darling Nikki

Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor.

Set by Dick Lodge, 23 Apr 2016

FA: Dick Lodge, 23 Apr 2016

Sport 10m, 3
22 Spanish Sahara

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

Set by Dick Lodge

FA: Jimmy, 26 Mar 2016

Sport 10m, 3
25 Spanish Sahara Direct

Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip.

Sport 10m
Red Rock Pinnacles North Pinnacle
13 Grey Matter

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 2003

Trad 25m
13 Womble

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

Trad 20m
20 R So, You Think You Can Dance?

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

Mixed trad 15m, 2
21 Dislocation

A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

Sport 15m, 3
25 Strike the First Blow

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 17m
22 Static Ticking Rampage

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith Tim Lee, 2003

Sport 20m, 6
22 A Bolt Too Far

The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady!

FFA: adam demmert, Monty Curtis & , 2006

Sport 10m
28 Dean Moriarty

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Set by adam demmert

FA: Kent Paterson, 2017

Sport 15m
24 Struck Twice

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

Sport 17m
18 Hamstrung

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith

Trad 30m
28 Insha'Allah

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

FFA: adam demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

Sport 15m, 6
16 Better Up Than Down

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

FA: Lewis Clarey & Abdul Rahman, 5 Dec 2014

Trad 30m
Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle
23 Red Rock Arete

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Peter Riddy, 1989

Trad 35m
26 English Rose

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a FH to a slim groove. Up left past 2no of FH to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top & lower off anchor. First pitch is clean as a whistle.

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1989

Trad 45m
25 Redback

A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a FH 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward past 2no of FH. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. Possible to head point / top rope from dang's anchor. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete (2 RB's). Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Now straight up arete, it gets easier to the top. Lower off anchor in small cave.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson & Martin Scheel, 1989

Trad 55m
25 Cloak of Darkness

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the great orange face. A long draw (60cm) may help on the third bolt. Beware when lowering that the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

Sport 30m, 7
24 Redback pitch 1
Trad 25m
25 Redback pitch 2

FA: Steve Monks

Trad 20m
26 Parkour Kids

Outrageous climbing. Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of RB's left up the stunning rock on hidden pockets and edges. Rest in corner then power up steep finale. Recommend backclimb to clean. Extending first 3 draws is recommended. We used the following (1st RB 60cm, 2nd RB = 90cm, 3rd FH = 120cm)

Sport 30m, 9
20 Dang

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge with natural gear. Scramble off to the right (roped) or continue upwards into 'Redback' – grade 25.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Sport 9m
17 Red Ragging

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Peter Riddy, 1989

Trad 30m
19 The Propaganda Machine

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith

Trad 35m
23 Full Metal Vengeance

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005

Sport 26m, 6
19/20 Conflicting Vengeance (Linkup)

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Sport 30m
20 Conflict of Interest

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 25m, 7
27 Chrysalis

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 20m, 6
23 Fat Fingered Freak

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

FA: Nick McKinnon

Sport 18m, 4
23 Variance

One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

FA: Neil Monteith

Mixed trad 18m, 4
23 One Ring to Bind Them

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 15m, 4
18 M1 R I Just Called To Say I Love You

Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

Trad 15m
Red Rock Pinnacles Back Wall
21 Bellrock

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

Sport 25m, 6
17 Gandolf the Grey

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

Sport 25m, 5
14 Wimbleton

Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

Trad 40m
16 Moria

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

FA: Keith, Tim Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2003

Trad 40m
15 Height of Darkness

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off

FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

Mixed trad 20m, 3
12 The Constant Gardener

Start 15 metres right of The Height of Darkness and follow grassy middle crackline left until it runs out. Finish up 1 metre right of The Height Of Darkness. Belay off chicken heads.

FA: Louis Godsell & Jimmy Stephens

Trad 20m
20 Bikini Bootcamp

A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Sport 10m, 4
22 Beached Whale (Link-up)

Climb to the 2nd bolt of Two Weeks to a Beach Body, then had left onto the vague arête of Bikini Bootcamp and then up past the last two bolts of 'BB' to lower off.

Sport 10m, 4
22 Two Weeks to a Beach Body

Intense plaything with a bouldery start and much easier finish. Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 10m, 3
19 Anniversary Equation

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2014

Sport 12m, 4
14 Gimli

Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2003

Trad 25m
The Impossible Corner Project

Closed Project The imposing overhanging orange corner located on a ledge above Wimbelton.

FA: 2012


Showing 1 - 100 out of 273 routes.

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