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Routes in Red Rock Area for selected grade

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Showing all 39 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Red Rock Pinnacles Pellant Pinnacle
23 Sharon's Face (Project)

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004

Trad 8m
Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle
23 Je Ne Parle Pas Français

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 14m
23 Non Parlo Italiano

Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 10m
Red Rock Pinnacles Vertebrae Pinnacle
23 Get What You Paid For

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004

Sport 15m
23 Sweat of Effort

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

Trad 20m
Red Rock Pinnacles Kentucky Block
23 Monkey Punch

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Set by Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

FA: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

Sport 14m, 4
Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle
23 Red Rock Arete

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Peter Riddy, 1989

Trad 35m
23 Full Metal Vengeance

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005

Sport 26m, 6
23 Fat Fingered Freak

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

FA: Nick McKinnon

Sport 18m, 4
23 Variance

One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

FA: Neil Monteith

Mixed trad 18m, 4
23 One Ring to Bind Them

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 15m, 4
Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench
23 Spinal Tap

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 20m
Crag X
23 Solar Flare

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015

Sport 18m, 6
23 Misty

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 2
23 A Visit From The Footbinder

The only slab for miles.

Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 1
V3 Chained to the Massess (s)

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

Boulder
V3 Mosquito (S)
Boulder
V3 Eye Candy (s)

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

Boulder
V3 Dead Beat Traverse
Boulder
V4 Point Blank
Boulder
V4 Kang (s)
Boulder
V4 Mezzagade
Boulder
V3 Mary Poppins
Boulder
V3 Anti Freeze
Boulder
V3 Sub Zero
Boulder
V3 The Tardis (S)
Boulder
V3 Light Speed (s)
Boulder
V3 MightyMouse (s)
Boulder
V4 Spontaneous Combustion (s)
Boulder
V3 AC Joint (s)
Boulder
V4 Jail Break (s)
Boulder
V3 Bobet
Boulder
V3 Acid Jazz
Boulder
The Solarium Ballbag Amphitheatre
23 The big honey hunt

Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2015

Sport 5
Scoop Rocks
23 Angry Arborist

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Sport 25m
23 Quasimodo's Dream

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

Trad 20m
23 Three Legged Dog

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Sport 20m
Sherpa Rocks
23 Best of Hillwood

Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR).

Mixed trad 13m, 2
The Grandstand
23 M1 Sporting Chance

The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"

  1. 20m (23) Up the corner line, over the awkward bulge and step left to belay

  2. 25m (23 M0) Veer right up the continuing line to the left-hand of two hanging corners. Up the corner with 1 wire for aid.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989

Aid 45m, 2

Showing all 39 routes.

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