Routes in Red Rock Area

A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

Intense plaything with a bouldery start and much easier finish. Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. And - unless it has been rebolted - remember to take a bolt plate!

Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off.

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off

One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge at DBB.

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay.

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off.

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

Striking Orange and Grey corner that can be seen from the road. Perfect rock and a short bush bash from the carpark. A 28m abseil off tat at the end of the 2nd pitch makes it all rather convenient.

1. 20m (20) Up the line to ledge below the steep headwall, to belay on sloping ledge.

2. 8m (21) Exciting climbing for a few moves.

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

Straight from the hermits Baha’i Faith Prayer book. Up the middle orange streak past 4 FH to anchors.

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave.

Start to the left of the black water streak and climb straight up past 4 FH to anchors.

Aka. the cheap Chinese petrol drill route…Straight up into, and through, the main scoop past 4 FH to anchors.

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor.

Climb to the 2nd bolt of Two Weeks to a Beach Body, then had left onto the vague arête of Bikini Bootcamp and then up past the last two bolts of 'BB' to lower off.

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady!

Up deceptively overhung wall, starting just right of the black water streak. Easy but committing to the first bolt, so best to stick clip.

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

Climb up just right of the scoop past 5 FH to anchors. It might look slightly contrived, but as long as you avoid stepping into the scoop you’re forced to climb slightly right of the bolts and it’s totally independent and really good climbing.

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

More reachy climbing on good rock in next small gully 10m E of 'Invalid Stout'. Climb steep fingery wall (3 RBs) to face and corner (small/med cams and wires).

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

Orange corner on opposite side of gully to 'Revenue Road'.

Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR).

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

Some reachy moves on lovely compact rock. As for 'Invalid Stout' to first BR, then step L and up rounded slopers past another three BRs. There’s also medium to large cam placements. Belay from large rock bollards on summit.

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip.

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature.

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains.

Start a few metres further right. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb from the left to giant dinner plate jug, then up wall above to ledge. After a breather, launch up the steep juggy headwall to anchors.

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off.

Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge.

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off.

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone.

Left-hand bolted line. Up small scoop past 2 FH. When it ends, trend desperately up and left to 3rd FH, then slightly left before blasting straight up unlikely wall past 4th FH to anchors.

Left-leaning ramp 15 metres right of "Day Of The Fox". Above the bulge, finish just right of the arete.

Very enjoyable. At the left side of the wall is a line of jugs. Steeply up these to a tiny stance in corner then keep going straight up the juggy rib to easier ground.

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor!

Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle.

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

Overhung corner 10m left of 'Angry Arborist'. Thin laybacking past BR to short wide juggy crack. As for original route.

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.