Routes in Grampians

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 8,751 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Closed Campground Boulders
V3 Super Deluxe

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

Boulder 4m
V4 Ultra Deluxe

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

Boulder 5m
V7 Inspector Gadget

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

Boulder 4m
V7 Inspector Gadget Left

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

V5 The Claw

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.

Boulder 4m
V6 Pinch Dyno
V5 The Dyno

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

Boulder 4m
V2 Mary

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

Boulder 4m
V6 Silly Putty

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip, then head right through the huecos following the obvious line leading to a top-out up and right. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

Boulder 5m
V6 Silly Putty Direct

Follow 'Silly Putty' to the lip, then head directly up through juggy flakes.

Boulder 4m
V7 Butt Gravity

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Boulder 5m
V8 Butt Eater

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

V9 Race Eater

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

V8 Happy Camper (Race Eater Variant)

More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V8 Happy Camper Traverse

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.

V7 happy camper

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

V7 Button Mushrooms

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

V5 No Sex After Mushrooms

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

V7 No Sex After Mushrooms LHV

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

V3 Boundary

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

Boulder 4m
V5 Out of Bounds

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

V4 Ross's Problem

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

Boulder 5m
V7 Hip Flexor

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Boulder 4m
V6 No. 24
V2 Flexor Traverse

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

Boulder 9m
V1 Unflexed

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

Boulder 4m
V4 Minus

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

Boulder 3m
V7 Plus

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

V8 Worm Saloon

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

V10 Butthole Surfer

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V13 The Scorpion King

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002

V8 Gourmet Cat

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Boulder 3m
V5 Nimbus 2000

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

Boulder 3m
V6 Connection

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

Boulder 4m
V3 Disconnected

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

V5 Obelisk

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

V6 Asterix

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

V6 Fat Cow

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V8 Da-Lai-Lahmung

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

V2 Beam Me Up
V4 Raumschiff Enterpriess

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

Boulder 3m
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs
3 Automatic Runaway

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

FA: Colin Mibus, 2000

Trad 6m
15 Lamington

Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.

FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003

Trad 10m
18 Vanilla Slice

Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.

FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003

Trad 12m
12 Ghoulies

6m right of Automatic Runway. Through the overhang and up the corner. Marke dby high white square.

FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

Trad 10m
13 Rock Cookie

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

FA: Jack Lewis & Ben Wright, 2003

Trad 12m
19 Mince Pie

The hardest route here. Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack.

FA: Ben Wright, 2003

Trad 12m
9 Casper

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1989

Trad 10m
10 Piece of Cake

Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.

FA: Nicky Eustace & Richard Eustace, 2003

Trad 7m
14 "" AKA On the road again

Don't know the original name.

Start left of the cave and climb over it to the right. Get into the overhanging bit and get through it using jugs on the left. Topping out is a bit tricky.

Trad 10m
14 Turkey Sandwich

Getting full value from limited resources! Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start. Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better.

FA: Ben Wright (solo), 2003

Trad 25m

Route with single FH right of Spirits in the Sky.

6 Pool Climb
Trad 10m
8 Windy
Trad 35m
8 Spirits In The Sky

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

Trad 18m
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Warden Wall
17 Crimps of Doom

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Trad 10m
17 Rohans Route

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

FA: Rohan Archibald

Trad 10m
14 Gormet

Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top.

FA: Hanh Le, 2003

Trad 10m
18 My Bitch Bubba

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

FA: Tuan Le, 2003

Trad 10m
8 Photographers Solo

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Trad 10m
14 Jump Gimli!

Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.

FA: Jack Lewis, Simon Punt & Cameron Barrett, 2003

Trad 7m
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentry Wall
15 Topple Tor

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

FA: Bedford

FA: Lyons & Gordon

FA: Gary, 2005

Trad 15m
9 The First Post

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

Trad 12m
16 Aware

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

Trad 12m
15 Cold At Dawn

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

Trad 12m
12 Sentry Line

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

Trad 15m
5 Sentry Arête

The right hand rib of the chimney.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

Trad 12m
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground The Guardhouse
21 Affluenza

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007

Sport 14m, 5
23 Line Of Sight

BOLTS ON THIS ROUTE ARE DANGEROUS with stress cracking that is hard to see. Stay off until replaced. Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Sport 15m, 5
24 Felonies Under the Radar

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

Start: 3rd bolted line from the left.

FFA: adam demmert, 2008

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

Sport 11m, 5
23 Miss Communication

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 10m, 4
23 Little George

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off.

FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003

Sport 14m, 4
24 Ranger Danger

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start (stick clip ring) up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Sport 13m, 5
19 Fractionally Flamed

Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007

Sport 15m, 3
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentry Boulder
V5 Turn of the Sentry

Crouch start on low pocket-jug and raised edge. Move through roof pockets to good holds higher up. Traverse lip to mantle finish.

FA: Nikita Miltiadou, 5 Nov 2016

North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave
16 Green Moon

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 15m, 5
10 R Easier Puzzle

Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of 'Half Shark Half Man'. Follow corner to finish at ledge and HSHM anchors.

FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger, 2003

Trad 12m
17 R Half Shark Half Man

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith, 2003

Sport 14m, 3
23 Media Puzzle

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

Sport 16m, 6
23 Media Puzzle Extension

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!

FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003

Sport 18m
23 Far Lap

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005

Trad 25m
26 Why Monty Why?

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left to join MP. Climb all the way to top of cave. Ignore bolt out left Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

FA: Trent Searcy, 27 May 2018

Sport 10m
25 Makybe Diva

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Sport 7m
22 Roof of Doom

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Sport 35m
27 Canadian Honey

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.

FA: 2004

FFA: Josh Grose, 27 May 2018

Sport 10m
26 Antics

Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

Sport 14m, 5
26 Army of Ants

Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain.

FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

Sport 15m, 5
23 Stepping on Snakes

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

Sport 14m, 5
22 Screaming Barfies

Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

Sport 10m, 4
20 Dwarf Pumper

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

Sport 8m, 3
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Wall
18 Sunsation

A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2003

Trad 15m
17 Fot as Huck

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

Sport 20m, 6
20 Sunraysia

Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

Sport 20m, 5
15 Tatiana

Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay.

FA: Michael Schedlberger, Phil Neville & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Trad 12m
15 Know Your Signals

Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay.

FA: Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Trad 14m
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock
3 Getting Away From the Olds

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007

Trad 6m
17 No Respite

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Trad 8m
8 Nose Hairs

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

Trad 8m
7 Ulcerations

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

Trad 6m
16 Staying Grey

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Meily Effendy, 2007

Trad 7m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 8,751 routes.

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